This lamp
here is actually easier to mount. Available at most NAPA stores. May be
branded NAPA.
http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&storeId=10001&productId=31264&langId=-1
RJ
RJ Kanary wrote:
Either
of these fixtures.........................
http://www.grote.com/product.php?product_number=64471
http://www.pmlights.com/products.cfm?cId=3&fId=11&pId=622
Loaded with THIS lamp.......................................
http://www.bulbconnection.com/ViewSIMItem/bcrw/simid/1800/item.html
........................Are what I use for forward facing lighting.
They are mounted in the 'grille' just outboard of the OEM
lighting.Looks rather cute actually. :) You will have to
fabricate your own wiring, since the can be no use of chassis as a
return path. And #12 wiring would be a grand idea with the 4509 lamps
installed. <VBG>
RJ
Stephen Shore wrote:
Thanks
On Dec 1, 2011, at 8:46 AM, RJ Kanary wrote:
Not currently.But the
battery images are available at most manufacturer's websites.
{Interstate's part number is MTP-93.} On my next trip outside, I can
get the NAPA model number for the lamp fixtures.
RJ
Stephen Shore wrote:
Hey RJ,
Do you have photos of those batteries and your aux lighting fixtures?
Thanks,
Steve
On Dec 1, 2011, at 7:10 AM, RJ Kanary wrote:
My approach to the
tapped pack, lights go dim, horn won't work under heavy loading is a
suitable for the Apollo Era solution.Low profile recessed terminal SLI
batteries used in European vehicles in the Group 90 through 93 range
will just fit under the hood when mounted to a board that sits on the
front two batteries.
This has allowed me to operate the lift, OEM lighting,
OEM horn plus over 250W of auxiliary lighting. All without things
dimming under load.{ Those 4509 Av lamps do a swell job of turning
Night into Day. :) }
RJ
Charlie wrote:
As the new owner of a not-new (but
very nice) I-5, I'm full of questions.
1) The voltage to the motor looks to be controlled by a set of
microswitches, relays (contactors?) and a large nichrome heating
element with two taps. Is there any reason not to use a large, high
wattage rheostat instead, for smoother acceleration? Seems like it
would save power, too, since it would make less heat.
2) The front side panels are pop-riveted on. If I drill these out (to
get at some rust on the frame under the panels) is there any reason to
continue to use pop-rivets? Seems like nylocks would be just as tight
and quiet, but easier to work with in the future.
3) I don't like tapping the battery pack at 12v for the lift and
lights, especially since I will be using the lights a lot. I can get
36vdc bulbs to fit the existing sockets; if I rewound the lift motor
for 36vdc could I just move the tap wire over and get the full pack
voltage, or would I fry something? DC-DC converters seem to be
ridiculously expensive.
4) Anybody have any tips on reducing the amount of "rattle" during
operation? With the old Craftsman the engine was so deafeningly loud
I didn't care how noisy the mower deck was, but I'd like to get the
I-5 down to just blade noise. I'm thinking some springs in the spacer
stack on the front deck casters, and graphite on the roller axles,
just for starters.
Answers, opinions, rants all accepted! I haven't studied the wiring
diagrams yet (waiting on a part for my printer) so I apologize if any
of these questions are exceptionally stupid.
Thanks,
--Charlie Brooks
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