Either of these fixtures......................... http://www.grote.com/product.php?product_number=64471 http://www.pmlights.com/products.cfm?cId=3&fId=11&pId=622 Loaded with THIS lamp....................................... http://www.bulbconnection.com/ViewSIMItem/bcrw/simid/1800/item.html ........................Are what I use for forward facing lighting.They are mounted in the 'grille' just outboard of the OEM lighting.Looks rather cute actually. :) You will have to fabricate your own wiring, since the can be no use of chassis as a return path. And #12 wiring would be a grand idea with the 4509 lamps installed. <VBG>
RJ Stephen Shore wrote:
Thanks On Dec 1, 2011, at 8:46 AM, RJ Kanary wrote:Not currently.But the battery images are available at most manufacturer's websites. {Interstate's part number is MTP-93.} On my next trip outside, I can get the NAPA model number for the lamp fixtures.RJ Stephen Shore wrote:Hey RJ, Do you have photos of those batteries and your aux lighting fixtures? Thanks, Steve On Dec 1, 2011, at 7:10 AM, RJ Kanary wrote:My approach to the tapped pack, lights go dim, horn won't work under heavy loading is a suitable for the Apollo Era solution.Low profile recessed terminal SLI batteries used in European vehicles in the Group 90 through 93 range will just fit under the hood when mounted to a board that sits on the front two batteries.This has allowed me to operate the lift, OEM lighting, OEM horn plus over 250W of auxiliary lighting. All without things dimming under load.{ Those 4509 Av lamps do a swell job of turning Night into Day. :) }RJ Charlie wrote:As the new owner of a not-new (but very nice) I-5, I'm full of questions.1) The voltage to the motor looks to be controlled by a set of microswitches, relays (contactors?) and a large nichrome heating element with two taps. Is there any reason not to use a large, high wattage rheostat instead, for smoother acceleration? Seems like it would save power, too, since it would make less heat.2) The front side panels are pop-riveted on. If I drill these out (to get at some rust on the frame under the panels) is there any reason to continue to use pop-rivets? Seems like nylocks would be just as tightand quiet, but easier to work with in the future. 3) I don't like tapping the battery pack at 12v for the lift and lights, especially since I will be using the lights a lot. I can get 36vdc bulbs to fit the existing sockets; if I rewound the lift motor for 36vdc could I just move the tap wire over and get the full pack voltage, or would I fry something? DC-DC converters seem to be ridiculously expensive. 4) Anybody have any tips on reducing the amount of "rattle" during operation? With the old Craftsman the engine was so deafeningly loud I didn't care how noisy the mower deck was, but I'd like to get theI-5 down to just blade noise. I'm thinking some springs in the spacerstack on the front deck casters, and graphite on the roller axles, just for starters. Answers, opinions, rants all accepted! I haven't studied the wiring diagrams yet (waiting on a part for my printer) so I apologize if any of these questions are exceptionally stupid. Thanks, --Charlie Brooks _______________________________________________ Elec-trak mailing list Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu https://cosmos.phy.tufts.edu/mailman/listinfo.cgi/elec-trak_______________________________________________ Elec-trak mailing list Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu https://cosmos.phy.tufts.edu/mailman/listinfo.cgi/elec-trak