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Re: (ET) ET Deck Painting & Rust Converting



I used POR15 and into my fourth mowing season.  Got a WH deck on ebay, not babied, rusty underneath but no nasty pitting.  Wonder if WH used a better quality steel.  The POR15 folks say to use the silver paint first as it fills any hard-to-see teensy pits.  Before knowing about silver's properties I coated rusty metal with POR black and later found rusty pinpricks.  My deck was top-coated in silver with semi-gloss black as second coat. Black showing signs of wear so I'll re-do in gloss black, a bit more slippery.    

As for the pitting I'd use POR 15 silver to base-coat the pits.  Then use Bondo (makes a product reinforced with metal and/or fiberglass strands) on the pits.  Make sure to sand smooth and put on two coats of gloss black.  Here's my disclaimer...Bondo, uncoated, will take in moisture.  Therefore, two coats of paint.

Hope this is not what you've already done.  Best of luck.

Jack 


On Jun 7, 2011, at 7:08 PM, Steve Welch wrote:

So, to resurrect an old topic, I'm wondering what success y'all have had with coatings under the deck.  I have a deck that's basically straight and well worth using, but the underside has some decent rust pits and I'd like to convert / neutralize / eliminate the rust & coat it with something protective and durable.

I have used POR-15 on a previous deck and had the same experience as Chris T. did below.  I also looked into hot-dip galvanizing as suggested by Harry, but V&S wants $275 minimum and it has to completely clean & paint-free before they'll work with it.

Anybody have good experiences with other rust converters / neutralizers / coatings?  Inquiring minds want to know!

Thanks in advance,

Steve


On Jun 7, 2006, at 6:38 PM, harry landis wrote:


As I mentioned once before, something I tried last year worked out fine-I
took all the pieces off my deck and had it and the pieces hot dip
galvanized. So far, it looks just like when it came out of the dip. I never
wash it or do anything else to clean it. Way too lazy.

Harry Landis

From: "Chris Tromley" <ctromley gmail com>
To: Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
Subject: Re: (ET) painting, using Extend
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2006 12:29:14 -0400

On 6/7/06, tbamc <tbamc gbta net> wrote:
FWIW, I used Extend (brush on) on a few places on a car, many years
ago.  After all the time and effort I spent trying to get rid of that
rust, I was really PO'd to find it was back--under the paint--just a few
years later.  It was at that point I spent considerably more money and
bought POR-15.  Now, wouldn't use anything else.  YMMV.

Hi Thon,

I've used Extend, both brush-on and spray, on some heavily rusted
metal doors.  It looked good for a couple of years, then the rust came
back.  I hate wasting time like that.

Last year I sand blasted the underside of my EGT 150 mower deck.  The
rust was pretty bad, and not all was removed by blasting.  I wasn't
worried because I was going to use POR-15.  They make a big deal about
how its low viscosity allows it to get down into all the microscopic
voids in the rust and encapsulate it.

Nice idea, but bogus.  After removing the expected layer of dried
clippings from my beautiful POR-coated deck I found many little specs
of rust poking out through the coating.  Granted, leaving a painted
steel panel covered with a thick layer of wet grass is a pretty
extreme test, but POR-15 is *not* the magic bullet some believe it to
be.

Now I have to figure out how to hose down my deck regularly without
harming my motors.  It's a mid-mount deck, so that's a pain.  I'm
tempted to pull the motors and replace the bearings with sealed
versions just for this reason.

Chris

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