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Re: (ET) Tractor repair: motor on deck is overheating.wheel horse C-185
Dave,
Make SURE that you leave about 1/4" - 1/2" of room between the 5/16"
bolt's head and the clutch body. It will need that space as it comes
off.And as it does come off,you will need to back out the bolt some more
to create more room. What you see is NOT the end of the shaft.It is a
brazed-in slug that LOOKS like the shaft. If you thread the bolt head all
the way down against it will totally defeat the purpose.
Happy Rebuilding,
Harold Z.
On September 30, 2010 at 8:47pm -0400, you wrote:
>hello everyone I do not get on very much because I have been working
>late. I will try this with the socket head screw. I tried using a nut
>on top
>of the shaft and the puller was walking off. this will help. I have a OT
>C split bearing puller that is under the blade adapter and I am trying to
>grab the sides with a 2 leg puller. This thing is on tight. there is
>not
>a lot of room between the housing and blade adapter. Dave
>
>In a message dated 9/28/2010 12:26:48 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>metman glasgow-ky com writes:
>
>To add a couple points to Jim's reply:
>
>1. The absolute best three jaw puller for blade clutches is a Model 104
>Posi
>Lock (www.posilock.com). Kinda expensive but far superior to anything
>from
>Harbor Freight or anybody else. And it also works well for pulling
>bearings.
>
>2. I replace the standard 5/16-24 x 1 1/2" long hex head blade bolt with
> a
>socket head screw at least 2" long. The hex recess acts to contain the
>point on the puller's center bolt.
>
>Mike in KY
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: elec-trak-bounces cosmos phy tufts edu
>[mailto:elec-trak-bounces cosmos phy tufts edu] On Behalf Of Jim Coate
>Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 7:23 AM
>To: elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
>Subject: Re: (ET) Tractor repair: motor on deck is overheating.wheel
>horse
>C-185
>
>DAC8851 aol com wrote:
>> Hello I have a wheelhorse c-185.The motor on the deck is overheating
>> and the thermo switch turns it off. The housing is hotter than the
>> other
>> motor. I have 2 motors doing this. It is the 4 1/2 dia motor. I tried
>> pulling the blade adapter off the motor shaft but it is stuck. I am
>> soaking this with wd 40. I hope this just pulls off. or is there a
>> trick
>> getting it off? I was pulling hard with a puller but it would not move.
>> I will try again later. I do not have a lot of time to work on this so
>> it will be a slow process. When I open the motor up what should I be
>> looking for? Will the brushes or bearing cause this? Dave
>>
>
>Bearings are the most likely cause, and the easiest fix. But of course
>any repair requires getting the blade adapter off. You need to use a
>3-jaw puller or a 2-jaw puller with a bearing splitter or a press. It is
>imperative to pull on the bottom edge of the adapter (edge nearest the
>motor housing) and not on the flange - the flange will just bend and/or
>break off. When using a puller, first put the blade screw back in the
>threaded hole in the motor shaft. You don't want the forcing screw of
>the puller to damage the threads inside the motor shaft.
>
>Ideally just a little pulling will get it done. However... soaking 24
>hours ahead with penetrating oil is good. Heating the adapter body with
>a small torch may help - the trick is to heat the body quickly so it
>expands a little before the motor shaft inside starts to get hot and
>also expand. If you have the puller all set up with some pressure
>applied then heat, it may 'pop' when it breaks free. Heat cycle(s) may
>cook the grease in the lower bearing, but... you need to replace the
>bearings anyways.
>
>I'll send you info on replacement bearings & brushes etc off-line.
>
>--
>Jim Coate
>Waynesboro, VA
>www.FreeRangeElectric.com
>www.ElectricTractorStore.com
>
>= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
>NOTE: Mail sent to the "NO_REPLY" address will *not* reach me.
>To send me a private message, please follow the directions here:
>http://www.coate.org/contact_jim/
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