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hello everyone I do not get on very much because I
have been working late. I will try this with the socket head screw.
I tried using a nut on top of the shaft and the puller was walking
off. this will help. I have a OT
C split bearing puller that is under the blade adapter and I am trying to
grab the sides with a 2 leg puller. This thing is on tight. there is
not a lot of room between the housing and blade adapter. Dave
In a message dated 9/28/2010 12:26:48 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
metman glasgow-ky com writes:
To add a
couple points to Jim's reply:
1. The absolute best three jaw puller for
blade clutches is a Model 104 Posi
Lock (www.posilock.com). Kinda
expensive but far superior to anything from
Harbor Freight or anybody
else. And it also works well for pulling
bearings.
2. I
replace the standard 5/16-24 x 1 1/2" long hex head blade bolt with
a
socket head screw at least 2" long. The hex recess acts to contain
the
point on the puller's center bolt.
Mike in
KY
-----Original Message-----
From:
elec-trak-bounces cosmos phy tufts edu
[mailto:elec-trak-bounces cosmos phy tufts edu]
On Behalf Of Jim Coate
Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 7:23 AM
To:
elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
Subject: Re: (ET) Tractor repair: motor on
deck is overheating.wheel horse
C-185
DAC8851 aol com wrote:
>
Hello I have a wheelhorse c-185.The motor on the deck is
overheating
> and the thermo switch turns it off. The housing is hotter
than the other
> motor. I have 2 motors doing this. It is the 4
1/2 dia motor. I tried
> pulling the blade adapter off the motor shaft
but it is stuck. I am
> soaking this with wd 40. I hope this just pulls
off. or is there a trick
> getting it off? I was pulling hard with a
puller but it would not move.
> I will try again later. I do not have a
lot of time to work on this so
> it will be a slow process. When I open
the motor up what should I be
> looking for? Will the brushes or
bearing cause this? Dave
>
Bearings are the most
likely cause, and the easiest fix. But of course
any repair requires
getting the blade adapter off. You need to use a
3-jaw puller or a 2-jaw
puller with a bearing splitter or a press. It is
imperative to pull on the
bottom edge of the adapter (edge nearest the
motor housing) and not on the
flange - the flange will just bend and/or
break off. When using a puller,
first put the blade screw back in the
threaded hole in the motor shaft.
You don't want the forcing screw of
the puller to damage the threads
inside the motor shaft.
Ideally just a little pulling will get it done.
However... soaking 24
hours ahead with penetrating oil is good. Heating
the adapter body with
a small torch may help - the trick is to heat the
body quickly so it
expands a little before the motor shaft inside starts
to get hot and
also expand. If you have the puller all set up with some
pressure
applied then heat, it may 'pop' when it breaks free. Heat
cycle(s) may
cook the grease in the lower bearing, but... you need to
replace the
bearings anyways.
I'll send you info on replacement
bearings & brushes etc off-line.
--
Jim Coate
Waynesboro,
VA
www.FreeRangeElectric.com
www.ElectricTractorStore.com
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