Re: (ET) Shook deck apart, at least I have a welder....

[David Brandt <ev_dave13 yahoo com>]

I did something similar when patching up my deck.  I just used a flat mild 
steel 2" X 1/8" thick bar from tractor supply.  And mild steel will work 
(AISI 10XX or 11XX or 12XX will work).  Don't use galvanized, it releases 
toxic fumes when welded.  Just use plain finish, and paint it after 
welding and grinding smooth.

David Brandt


--- On Mon, 8/9/10, Christopher Zach <cz alembic crystel com> wrote:

> From: Christopher Zach <cz alembic crystel com>
> Subject: (ET) Shook deck apart, at least I have a welder....
> To: "et" <Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
> Date: Monday, August 9, 2010, 6:51 PM
> It looks like the welder may come in
> handy: Every once in awhile I like to run the batteries down
> to zero, then charge them up to re-sync the cells.
> 
> NOTE: I am running 60 BB600 NiCD aircraft batteries in the
> tractor, *NOT* Lead T105's. Doing this on T105's will ruin
> them.
> 
> Anyway, this time I ran the mower for 30 minutes along with
> the inverter powering a 300 watt halogen lamp. Gives me a
> nice 30a load which matches up well with the batteries.
> However this time I had the deck *up* on the winch with it
> running.
> 
> Came back an hour later. One of the deck arm mounting
> points had broken clean off. As in a perfect square of
> metal. It's not because the metal was rusted, the deck was
> vibrating and it literally flexed apart.
> 
> Crud. However since it's clean I should be able to fix it.
> Any tips on the type of steel I should use to fix the deck?
> I was thinking a square plate on the bottom, a square washer
> of steel in the middle, and another square plate on the
> top.
> 
> What size steel should I use? I have the ET welder, I'm
> assuming welding on low current will work for the thin metal
> of the deck.
> 
> Thanks!
> Chris
> 
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