Re: (ET) curtis - KSI input

[David Brandt <ev_dave13 yahoo com>]

Thanks for all the responses.  On the transaxle, it used two square head 
set screws with jam nuts.  I did check and there are no extra screws in 
there (and you're right, that is perverse.  I can see some mechanic 
(probably with his own transaxle repair company) giggling to himself as he 
puts them together on the assembly line...).

And thanks to Rod Hower, who sent a diagram of his tractor wiring - some 
of that is exactly what I had in mind.  I'm sure I can use it.  Thanks, 
Rod.

David Brandt


--- On Fri, 7/24/09, RJ Kanary <rjkanary consolidated net> wrote:

> From: RJ Kanary <rjkanary consolidated net>
> Subject: Re: (ET) curtis - KSI input
> To: "David Brandt" <ev_dave13 yahoo com>
> Cc: elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
> Date: Friday, July 24, 2009, 7:05 PM
> 
> 
> 
>   
> 
>  
>           
> How old is the tractor? { Hint, model number
> on tag in forward battery compartment. }The earlier 2318
> Peerless trans
> axles had a perverse  method of securing the hubs. 
> 
> 
> 
>         If yours had
> Allen® screws securing the hubs and they still
> won't come off, it's because there are still two
> Allen® screws still
> securing them. UNDERNEATH the two screws you have already
> removed. :)
> 
> 
> 
>       Otherwise, most inexpensive
> light automotive presses have enough
> room to allow the trans axle to fit down through the
> platform to press
> the axle shafts out of the hubs.
> 
> 
> 
>      [ Locate the press plates on the
> collar, right next to the axle
> shaft. Avoid locating the key and key way against the press
> plate.] 
> 
> 
> 
>        Liberal heat provided
> by a rosebud torch head will be needed,
> along with new axle seals.
> 
> 
> 
>         Any other
> approach will result in broken parts. Either the hubs
> themselves, or snap rings, spacers and bearings in the
> trans axle's
> final drive. Don't even THINK of using a slide hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
>         A puller will be
> an exercise it futility, as the flange simply
> won't tolerate that amount of stress.
> 
> 
> 
> USE A PRESS.
> 
> 
> 
> RJ
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> David Brandt wrote:
> 
>   Well, I am at the point in my restoration that I
> need to start wiring up a controller board soon (if I ever
> get the hubs off the transaxle so I can tear into it...are
> they welded on or what?  Removed set screws, applied
> penetrating oil, applied heat liberally, tensioned with a
> gear puller, and hit it with a hammer and it still won't
> budge - either side - but I digress...)
> 
> A little background - I intend to power the field directly
> (with a fwd/reverse relay and a field weakening relay), and
> to power the armature using a curtis 1204 controller.  Very
> simple setup, and I believe some others have done the same
> thing.
> 
> The Curtis manual states that the KSI input is used to turn
> the controller on and off.  Does anyone have experience in
> doing that?  If so, I can use this to disengage the
> controller for switching direction, etc. without having to
> activate the controller contactor - something that would
> likely burn up a small contactor like what we use and/or
> burn up a precharge resistor and various other components if
> done too much.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> David Brandt
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>       
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Elec-trak mailing list
> Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
> https://cosmos.phy.tufts.edu/mailman/listinfo/elec-trak
> 
>   
> 
>  
> 
>