How old is the tractor? { Hint, model number
on tag in forward battery compartment. }The earlier 2318 Peerless trans
axles had a perverse method of securing the hubs.
If yours had Allen® screws securing the hubs and they still
won't come off, it's because there are still two Allen® screws still
securing them. UNDERNEATH the two screws you have already removed. :)
Otherwise, most inexpensive light automotive presses have enough
room to allow the trans axle to fit down through the platform to press
the axle shafts out of the hubs.
[ Locate the press plates on the collar, right next to the axle
shaft. Avoid locating the key and key way against the press plate.]
Liberal heat provided by a rosebud torch head will be needed,
along with new axle seals.
Any other approach will result in broken parts. Either the hubs
themselves, or snap rings, spacers and bearings in the trans axle's
final drive. Don't even THINK of using a slide hammer.
A puller will be an exercise it futility, as the flange simply
won't tolerate that amount of stress.
USE A PRESS.
RJ
David Brandt wrote:
Well, I am at the point in my restoration that I need to start wiring up a controller board soon (if I ever get the hubs off the transaxle so I can tear into it...are they welded on or what? Removed set screws, applied penetrating oil, applied heat liberally, tensioned with a gear puller, and hit it with a hammer and it still won't budge - either side - but I digress...)
A little background - I intend to power the field directly (with a fwd/reverse relay and a field weakening relay), and to power the armature using a curtis 1204 controller. Very simple setup, and I believe some others have done the same thing.
The Curtis manual states that the KSI input is used to turn the controller on and off. Does anyone have experience in doing that? If so, I can use this to disengage the controller for switching direction, etc. without having to activate the controller contactor - something that would likely burn up a small contactor like what we use and/or burn up a precharge resistor and various other components if done too much.
Thanks!
David Brandt
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