RJ Kanary wrote:
Take your tractor down a slick enough, steep enough grade
in 'L' or 'LL' and you can observe both rear wheels sliding as the
tractor gains speed.At this point, it matters not how many brakes are
attached where, if they are only present on the rear
wheels.Seriously, try this experiment some time. You will approach
hillside operation with an increased level of caution.
I think the reason on this one is because when you cease braking with
the motor in regen mode (due to wheel slip), braking effort from the
motor drops to zero due to the collapse of the armature current which
releases the wheel. Then as the wheels start to move the motor applies
braking again. Almost like a little ABS system of sorts.
The brake brake will lock up a wheel.
Small frame tractor operators can seek even larger thrills by
using three twelve volt batteries in the front compartment only. :)
My criteria for braking is that the tractor must be able to stop going
down my driveway (30+ degree angle) while free-wheeling (simulates
dropping it in neutral) with the blower and a weight box (100lbs in
box, blower slightly off ground) with chains attached.
The chains make the whole issue of rotating tires 1000% moot: They
will not slip even on ice (done this). With the brakes adjusted, the
tractor can stop before it gets to the bottom of the hill.
In summer I mow the grass up the same hill. If the grass is wet you
simply don't go up it. If you have to go down you use the driveway.
Even when wet, the E20 will stop with the deck on it and down without
skidding.
If the grass is dry you could skid and rip the grass apart. However
the tractor will still stop by the bottom.
So I think the E20 brakes are adequate when properly adjusted. Problem
is most people don't adjust them and the results are bad.
Replacing the brake with a self-adjusting disc brake might be a good
idea, one might also try building a hydraulic brake system.
Chris