So here's what I've found so far:
1) The motor model number is 5BC1-56K.
2) I went through the battery pack with the meter, and each
battery adds approx. 6V to the total. The maximum voltage is reached
at B2+ at 32V.
3) I've looked at all the control relays and I don't see any
obvious causes of short circuiting.
4) I disconected all the wires at the bottom of the fuse
panel, engaged the power disconnect, and re-attached the wires
one-by-one. Sure enough, the 30A fuse blew when I connected the bottom
wire.
5) I verified that all wires are connected to the relays
correctly per the manual.
6) I followed some of the trouble shooting pictures in the
service manual (pp. 1-37, 1-38) and found 0V at the small studs of 1F
contactor when speed control is pushed forward, rather than the 36V
expected; 0V at the small studs of 2R contactor when speed control is
pushed forward, as expected; 9V at large studs of 1F when the speed
control is pushed forward; 0V across fuse FU3 (the one in the middle)
when the fuse is good and in the holder, as expected; 12V rather than
36V across the fuse FU3 when the fuse is not in the holder.
7) I think this may be where the problem lies.
The wires connected to the fuses are not in sync with those in the
manual!
Manual
FU2 top: 17 FU3 top: 4-01,
4-00 FU4 top: 4-01
FU2 bot: 2-02 FU3 bot: 22-00, 22-02
FU4 bot: 32-01, 32-00
My E12
FU2 top: an unnumbered wire top of FU3. FU3 top: wire from
FU2 top FU4 top: 17, 4004
FU2 bot: 32-0132, 32-0032 FU3 bot:
22-0022, 22-0222 FU4 bot: 2022
Has anyone ever seen this configuration before? Do you
suspect this would explain the problems? I'm on my way out to try and
reconfigure it all.
Paul
-------------- Original message --------------
From: RJ Kanary
<rjkanary nauticom net>
Lets take this opportunity to look at the fuse holders and
the circuits they protect.
FU-2, [No I'm not making this up, that's it's designation.] protects
the lift motor circuit.It is the fuse located on the outside of the
trio. It usually has a blue wire at the bottom of the fuse holder. THIS
IS THE ONLY LOCATION WHERE A 30A Slo-Blo® FUSE IS SPECIFIED.
FU-3, in the middle of the trio protects all the control circuits.That
includes all the contactor coils and the RTN circuit that consists of
the Seat Switch, the Brake Switch and so on.The Centrifugal Switch on
the traction motor is also in series with this downstream of CB-1.
Were I you, it is at the bottom of this fuse holder th at I w
ould start my investigation.Using either a circuit breaker or an old th
ermal turn signal flasher, replace the fuse to limit your melted lead
in a glass tube collection. <G>
Remove all the wires from the bottom of the fuse holder. Close the
Power Disconnect. No Dramatic Activity? Reconnect the wires, one at a
time with the PD open, the close it to observe the results. When you
hit the wire that elicits Dramatic Activity, now you can trace it
through. :)
FU-4,at the opposite end from FU-2 in the trio protects the lighting
circuit only.
Hope this gets you heading in the right direction.
RJ
paul mitchell2007 comcast net
wrote:
Yes, the lift motor works after the 30A fuse opens. The
lights are also inoperable, and I have all the manuals. I'm taking the
day off tomorrow to work on it, and this will be the first real
concentrated effort I've had to diagnose what's going on. However,
being that this is my first foray into diagnosing electrical problems,
I was hoping to get some ideas where to start.
Thanks
--------------
Original message --------------
From: RJ Kanary <rjkanary nauticom net>
Does the lift motor still work after the 30A fuse opens? If it
does, it's a sure bet that it's NOT the lift fuse. :( Are the lights
inop also ? BTW, do you possess the Homeowner's Service Manual ?
RJ
paul mitchell2007 comcast net
wrote:
It's the 30 amp fuse that blows, but the lift motor
works fine. I checked each battery individually, but not in succession
as you suggest. I'll be sure to check that next. The gauges on the
dash do nothing; everything appears to be dead. The numbers on the
side panel are (nearest I can tell) 26AF12C and P24121, but I'm not
sure if these are the original panels or not, as they were screwed on,
not riveted.
--------------
Original message --------------
From: Jim Coate <jbc_lists_NO_REPLY coate org>
> Caution: late night ramblings as I should be in bed, but that
said...
>
> By (sleepy) memory, the 30 amp fuse is for the lift; the control
fuse
> and lights fuse are each 20 amps. Which fuse is it that blows?
>
> If you go through the battery pack with your meter, does each
battery
> add ~6 volts to the total? ie keep the black meter lead on the
most
> negative terminal (B5-) and move the red lead up one battery at a
time
> and should see 6, 12, 18, 24, 30 and 36 volts (or a little higher
if
> fully charged) as move from B5+ to B6+ to B4+ to B3+ to B1+ to
B2+. And
> yes, GE numbered the batteries in the mo st confusing way possib
le.
> Diagram here:
> http://electrictractorstore.com/index.php?m
ain_pa ge=page&id=8&chapter=10
>
> I'd ask what the gauges on the dash do, but if the fuse blows, the
meter
> may not do anything?
>
> As RJ said, knowing what model would help. If the GE tag went to
the
> scrap yard along with the original rusty side panels, we'll have
to get
> a few details to guess the model. First up would be the
approximate
> diameter of the drive motor? (this determines if perm magnet model
JA or
> sep-ex models CA-HA).
>
>
> paul mitchell2007 comcast net
wrote:
> >
> > My E12 looks brand new: 4 new tires, rusted metal replaced, f
r esh pa int,
> > and new decals. The only problem...it doesn't run!
> >
> > 1) When I engage the power disconnect, the 30A fuse blows.
>
>
>
> --
> Jim Coate, Spencertown, New York
>
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>
> 1998 Electric S-10, 1997 Solectria Force, 1970's Elec-Traks
> http://www.eeevee.com
>
> The Electric Tractor Store is now open!
> http://www.electrictractorstore.com
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