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Re: (ET) ok, not the fusible link
HEY RJ - best one yet on this thread. Time's a wastin. And if she ain't
fixed right shortly, it is very hard to do Etroubleshootin with mittens
on.
Dave
Weymouth MA
On Sat, 29 Jul 2006 22:26:48 -0400 "RJ Kanary" <rjkanary nauticom net>
writes:
> If CB-1 is open, NOTHING works. Including the lift motor.
> Also the
> RTN circuits. No RTN, no PTO.CB-2, on the firewall, prevents the
> firewall
> taking on the literal sense of the term in the event that one of the
> charger
> diodes should fail shorted.
> As far as repairing the fuse holder.........depends on your
> determination.While you are pondering that, get an inline fuse
> holder,
> splice it in, and get this thing working.We're burning daylight
> here, and
> soon it will be snow plowing time...................
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael S Briggs" <msbriggs alberti unh edu>
> To: "RJ Kanary" <rjkanary nauticom net>
> Cc: <elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
> Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2006 10:08 PM
> Subject: Re: (ET) ok, not the fusible link
>
>
> >
> > RJ,
> > Alrighty, will do (tomorrow morning). It will be my first time
> > doing anything on the drive motor - haven't touched it yet.
> > Kind of funny - based on the schematics, I figured it could be
> > CB-1 - but I thought that was the thermal breaker near the fuse
> panel. :)
> > It may have failed - but it's seeming now like it should be
> > something else, since after soldering that control fuse holder, I
> am
> > seeing some voltage on the fuel gauge (doesn't seem to be reading
> > accurately though), and from the schematic, it looks like the fuel
> gauge
> > shouldn't read anything if CB-1 is open. Also, the PTO outlet
> isn't
> > working, and CB-1 isn't on that circuit (at least it looks that
> way from
> > the schematic).
> > On the fuse holder - is there any way to fix the old one, or
> > should the whole thing be replaced? So far, it's seemed like my
> attempt at
> > soldering the connection there hasn't been very effective.
> > Hm, just realized that I haven't tried running the lift motor
> > since it died - I'm assuming it doesn't work, but knowing for sure
> might
> > help isolate the problem. I'll try that in the morning too.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Mike
> >
> > --
> >
> > --------------------------------------------------------------
> > Michael S. Briggs
> > UNH Physics Department
> > (603) 862-2828
> > ---------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > On Sat, 29 Jul 2006, RJ Kanary wrote:
> >
> >> Knowing now that you have an AA model..................<VBG>,
> I can
> >> tell
> >> you that the early fuse holders were problematic. What ever fault
> cause
> >> the
> >> fuse to open could well have finished off the holder as well.
> >> Remember that bad high current connection that I suspected
> that you
> >> may
> >> have, due to the motorboating and chattering that you had ? I
> think that
> >> you
> >> just may find it now. Take a look at CB-1, that large Klixon®
> thermal
> >> limiter
> >> on the traction motor case . If it has failed open, nothing would
> power
> >> up,
> >> including the "Fuel Gauge".
> >> Fix the fuse holder, investigate CB-1, and report back
> with your
> >> findings. :)
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael S Briggs"
> >> <msbriggs alberti unh edu>
> >> To: "RJ Kanary" <rjkanary nauticom net>
> >> Cc: <elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
> >> Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2006 9:08 PM
> >> Subject: Re: (ET) ok, not the fusible link
> >>
> >>
> >>>
> >>> RJ,
> >>> Mine's an AA.
> >>> An update on what I've looked over:
> >>> Since the fuel gauge wasn't showing anything, I decided to try
> tracking
> >>> the path around it to see where the path was broken. From the
> positive
> >>> end
> >>> of the pack to the fuel gauge was fine, the problem was on the
> end from
> >>> the
> >>> - end of the pack to the fuel gauge. The path was fine to the
> fuse
> >>> holder,
> >>> and fine from the fuel gauge to the side of the fuse holder
> closest to
> >>> it.
> >>> So, that would seem to indicate blown fuse - but the fuse was
> fine. What
> >>> I
> >>> ended up finding was that with the fuse in the fuse holder, it
> had no
> >>> connection to the screw terminal where the wires connect.
> >>> I tried just cleaning everything out well, filing off any
> possible
> >>> rust,
> >>> and then sprayed it down with De-Oxit cleaner, but still
> nothing.
> >>> The rivet connection where the fuse holder is connected to the
> plate
> >>> that
> >>> the screw is on (where the wires connect) was loose and wobbly,
> >>> apparently
> >>> not making a good connection. The other fuse holders looked nice
> and
> >>> tight
> >>> at that rivet, but not this one - so I figured maybe I had
> somehow
> >>> weakened
> >>> the rivet when I pulled out the blown fuse to replace it.
> >>> So, I figured I'd try soldering that connection to make a
> better
> >>> contact
> >>> between the fuse holder and the screwed in connections. That may
> not
> >>> have
> >>> been a great idea (that block with the fuse holders connected
> doesn't
> >>> seem
> >>> to like the heat), but it did at least get it where now when I
> engage
> >>> the
> >>> power disconnect, I do get a reading on the fuel meter gauge -
> but it
> >>> was
> >>> much lower than it should have been, and still nothing works -
> no drive
> >>> motor, no PTO, etc..
> >>> So, for the time being I pushed the tractor back into the
> garage (man
> >>> that
> >>> thing is heavy - especially when you're pushing it up a hill).
> Got a
> >>> good
> >>> workout though. :)
> >>> It may just be that the fuel gauge is reading low due to some
> >>> additional
> >>> resistance somewhere in the path (perhaps at the fuse holder),
> but I'm
> >>> also
> >>> suspicious that the pack may have been slowly discharging
> through some
> >>> short somewhere - so I disconnected the negative-most battery
> terminal.
> >>> Apparently something other than just the fuse did blow, I just
> need to
> >>> figure out what. What could cause this symptom of no power to
> anything?
> >>> The
> >>> fuel gauge meter was showing nothing also, until I tried
> soldering that
> >>> fuse holder connection - but perhaps I shouldn't have done that.
> When I
> >>> then decided to check the resistance between the fuses
> themselves and
> >>> the
> >>> wires connected to the terminals on the fuseholders for the
> other two
> >>> fuses, they also seem to have no connection (between the fuse
> and the
> >>> screws on the fuse block) - don't know if they were like that
> initially,
> >>> if
> >>> they're supposed to be that way, or if I screwed something up
> when
> >>> soldering that one fuse block.
> >>>
> >>> Thanks,
> >>> Mike
> >>>
> >>> --
> >>>
> >>> --------------------------------------------------------------
> >>> Michael S. Briggs
> >>> UNH Physics Department
> >>> (603) 862-2828
> >>> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> >>>
> >>> On Sat, 29 Jul 2006, RJ Kanary wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> Once again, I will ask what flavor of E-15 you have. Since
> they have
> >>>> three different wiring configurations, knowing which revision
> yours is,
> >>>> {AA, BA and so on.} would help me help you. The pertinent
> information
> >>>> is
> >>>> on the data plate under the hood.
> >>>> Thanks.
> >>>>
> >>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael S Briggs"
> >>>> <msbriggs alberti unh edu>
> >>>> To: <elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
> >>>> Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2006 4:08 PM
> >>>> Subject: (ET) ok, not the fusible link
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Found a post from Wombat in the archives saying where the
> fusible link
> >>>>> is
> >>>>> - just a wire going across two terminals on the Power
> Disconnect. Ok,
> >>>>> so
> >>>>> the fusible link is fine, so it's apparnetly something else.
> >>>>> Based on the wisps of smoke that came up around the speed
> lever,
> >>>>> it seems reasonable to suspect something underneath it may
> have blown.
> >>>>> There's that big ol relay down underneath there - but that's
> just the
> >>>>> PTO
> >>>>> contactor. Unless it's failure mode is creating a short across
> the
> >>>>> batteries, I can't see that being the problem, since it's not
> just the
> >>>>> PTO
> >>>>> that's not working - nothing is.
> >>>>> I suppose the smoke could have come from something in the
> speed
> >>>>> control itself, but that shouldn't cause the no power at all
> problem
> >>>>> (at
> >>>>> least from looking at the schematics, I don't think it
> should).
> >>>>> From looking at the Troubleshooting sketch schematic for the
> E-15
> >>>>> in the manual, and just looking at what might result in the
> fuel level
> >>>>> gauge not seeing squat, the only things between the fuel level
> gauge
> >>>>> and
> >>>>> the batteries (so the only things that keep it from reading
> batt
> >>>>> voltage)
> >>>>> are:
> >>>>> 1. Power Use gauge - checked it with the multimeter, it's
> fine.
> >>>>> 2. 20 Amp fuse 3 - it blew initially, I replaced it with 20
> amp light
> >>>>> fuse
> >>>>> for the moment.
> >>>>> 3. Wire 13 goes from that fuse to the PTO coil (is this the
> PTO
> >>>>> contactor?
> >>>>> Or some other coil?), but you don't seem to need to have a
> connection
> >>>>> THROUGH the coil for the fuel gauge, since line 13 comes off
> of that
> >>>>> same
> >>>>> connection point on the terminal, and continues to the fuel
> gauge - on
> >>>>> the
> >>>>> negative side of it.
> >>>>> 4. Line 5 comes off the + side of the fuel gauge, goes to fuse
> 2 (the
> >>>>> lift
> >>>>> fuse, but doesn't go through it, just connects to one end of
> it, and
> >>>>> continues on from that same connection point), continues to
> the L
> >>>>> contactor, but not through it, and to circuit breaker 1. Hm,
> haven't
> >>>>> checked that yet - isn't that the main circuit breaker on the
> back of
> >>>>> the
> >>>>> panel that has the forward/reverse relay and such on it? I
> pressed it
> >>>>> to
> >>>>> reset in case it was the issue, but it seemed to be fine. I'll
> check
> >>>>> again
> >>>>> in a minute just in case.
> >>>>> 5. Power Disconnect, which presumably doesn't itself fail in
> any way -
> >>>>> I'll check though.
> >>>>> 6. Fusible link - fine.
> >>>>> 7. And then to the + side of the pack.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> So, presumably something in there is failed. I'll head back
> out with
> >>>>> my
> >>>>> multimeter and trace the line all around.
> >>>>> This is kinda fun, albeit somewhat frustrating, since I had
> other
> >>>>> things I wanted to do.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Mike
> >>>>>
> >>>>> --
> >>>>>
> >>>>> --------------------------------------------------------------
> >>>>> Michael S. Briggs
> >>>>> UNH Physics Department
> >>>>> (603) 862-2828
> >>>>>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> >>>>>
> >>>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>>> Elec-trak mailing list
> >>>>> Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
> >>>>> https://cosmos.phy.tufts.edu/mailman/listinfo/elec-trak
> >>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>
>
>
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