Re: (ET) charge voltage

[David C Robie <mycroftxx1 juno com>]

Use an electric motor 'run' cap.   NOT a starting cap.   When you take
that puppy out it's value both MF and volts should be on the side.

Dave
Weymouth MA


On Thu, 27 Jul 2006 09:08:34 -0400 (EDT) Michael S Briggs
<msbriggs alberti unh edu> writes:
> 
> Ok, so survey says "replace the capacitor". Looking through the 
> archives 
> on the capacitance of the capacitor, there seems to be some 
> disagreement 
> on what the capacitance is. I've seen posts saying 4 microFarads 
> (uF), and 
> some saying 10 uF.
>       It's presumably not an electrolytic cap, so I'm wondering 
> if I can 
> just use any old non-electrolytic high voltage cap (of either 4 or 
> 10 uF, 
> whichever it's supposed to be)? We have gobs of capacitors here at 
> work. I 
> even have a couple 22 F (yes, 22 Farad) carbon aerogel 
> ultracapacitors. :)
> 
> Thanks,
> Mike
> 
> On Wed, 26 Jul 2006, Neil Dennis wrote:
> 
> > Seems like we've been there before.  To reach full charge at "room
> > temp", like in the low 79's F, the individual cells need to be 
> pushed to
> > aprox. 2.7 volts each so about 48 volts measured at the battery
> > terminals when fully charged.  A bit less isn't too bad but not as 
> low
> > as 40 or so volts.  As a reference, an alternator charging a car 
> battery
> > is designed to run at 14.4 to 14.6 volts or about 2.4 volts per 
> cell,
> > this is to compensate for the engine compartment temperature - the
> > higher temp wants a somewhat lower voltage.  So, yeah, on mine the
> > "power" gage needle goes to the upper part of the white zone.  I 
> don't
> > use the et charger, have a portable "automatic" instead.
> >
> > wombat
> >
> > If you are seeing 40 volts, probably the capacitor is bad.
> >
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