(ET) HELP: A Little more info to consider

["Bob Klein" <stilettobob hotmail com>]

I had previously posted my resistance findings listed below which indicated 
a short.  Well this afternoon I was able to do some more trouble shooting 
and thought I found my short.  With the small green wires reconnected I was 
able to quicky go through all speeds.  YaaHo!  So I openend th garage door 
to drive itinto the shed, stuck it in gear and immediatedly backed up.  
Opps.  Hit the FWD selector switch and stepped on the accerator pedal.  At 
the second microswitch there was a small flash and the fuse is now OPEN!

So, the situation remains the same AND it's only in FWD.

Previous data:

I have disconnected the 1A contactor (green) control wires.  With them
disconnected and the main power disconnect switch energized, the motor
goes through the speeds, abet slower than when properly working.  Since
the fuse was blowing it was suggested by Chris Z that I check for shorts.
Here's the actual matrix of values measured.  I am a non-electrical guy so
please excuse my lack of expertise.

A description of each wire is as follows
Wire # 1308 goes to RTN-N
Wire # 1305 goes to the fuel meter
Wire # 1301 goes to 20A Fuse
Wire # 13 goes to 2A Coil

1308 to 1305  68 ohms
1308 to 1301  OPEN
1308 to 13    OPEN

1305 to 1301  OPEN
1305 to 13    186 ohms

1301 to 13    1.3 ohms

1308 to Chassis   OPEN
1305 to Chassis   OPEN
1301 to Chassis   OPEN
13 to Chassis     OPEN

It appears to me (Mr. Non-Electrical Guy) that 1301 to 1305 is shorted and
that wire 1305 to chassis is shorted.  To me it looks like 1305 is the
culprit but it goes to the fuel meter which works.  Sooooo,Any thoughts?

If anyone can offer advice please feel free to call me Toll Free at:
1-800-669-6892 Ext. 21948

Thanks in advance,

Bob