Re: (ET) Rust and Paint - sandblasting vs ...

[JBR <reinharj frontiernet net>]

I used wire wheels in drills, and L-head grinders with wire wheels & 
sanding 
discs.

But the sandblaster gets into small corners and places where other tools 
can't 
reach.

Makes an incredible mess if used outdoors though.

Keep it away from bearings, or anything else you don't want to dismantle 
completely, and clean dust out of.

Great for heavy metal (I-beams, castings, non precision surfaced parts).

WARPS aluminum and thin metal.

Everything has its pros/cons.

On Thursday 08 June 2006 01:08 pm, Michael S Briggs wrote:
> On Thu, 8 Jun 2006, ThompsonG DFO-MPO GC CA wrote:
> > Hi
> > I can't stay silent anymore I am currently just finishing up a
> > Auto/Restoration painting class at my local Community college. As such 
> > we
> > dealt with the issue of rust and rust repairs at length.
> > First, there is no magic bullet, the only way to repair rust is to 
> > remove
> > it completely and replace the missing metal if required. The only way 
> > to
> > do this is by sand blasting (or soda, or glass) But, you get the drift
> > and it is highly unlikely that this can be done in a small shop, 
> > although
> > some restorers (eg, Don Barry) can do it quite well. It is usually best
> > done in a dedicated sandblasting shop. So if you really want it done
> > right send it out.
>
> Why do you feel sandblasting is the only way to remove rust? Sandblasting
> is just a process of using abrasion to scour off the rust. There are many
> ways to generate abrasion, sand blasting certainly isn't the only one. Do
> you feel that grinding it off with wire brush wheel on a grinder doesn't
> get it all?
>
> Mike
>
> _______________________________________________
> Elec-trak mailing list
> Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
> https://cosmos.phy.tufts.edu/mailman/listinfo/elec-trak