Re: (ET) painting, using Extend

["Tim Humphrey" <hump evgrin com>]

I've touched on this before, but I think it mostly goes in one eye and out 
the other.

Read Bob's message again, it's still included.... there is a key point in 
it.


Rust Convertors need rust to convert. If you first sandblast or otherwise 
remove the rust, it will do NOTHING.

I applied some to an automotive body panel, the converted area DID NOT 
RUST, the rest of the panel DID, because it had
no rust when I applied the stuff.

I vaguely remember reading in the instructions for POR-15 a statement 
about not removing the rust, just the flakes. I
never used the stuff. I just read the instructions so I am not sure how it 
works.

If you are going to use this stuff, sandblast, then spray it with water 
and let it sit for a day or three and then
treat it after the rust has formed.

The preceding is just my opinion, I am not a professional in this field.


-- 
Stay Charged!
Hump
"Ignorance is treatable, with a good prognosis. However, if left 
untreated, it develops into Arrogance, which is often
fatal. :-)" -- Lee Hart

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>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: elec-trak-bounces cosmos phy tufts edu
> [mailto:elec-trak-bounces cosmos phy tufts edu] On Behalf Of Klein 
> Robert W
> NPRI
> Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2006 11:26 AM
> To: 'noaddress drmm net'; elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
> Subject: Re: (ET) painting, using Extend
>
> The commercially available "Rust Converters" as talked about on these
> threads came from coating systems developed for the off-shore oil rigs 
> and
> have proven themselves in that harsh environment.  I have used them
> extensively on boat trailers subject to saltwater immersion and have 
> never
> had the problems stated here.
>
> If properly applied, that means exposing all the iron oxide (rust) to the
> phosphoric acid component of the rust converter, you will be left with 
> Iron
> Phosphate and it will not rust again.
>
> Question:  How routinely do you wash down your batteries and battery
> compartments with prodigious amounts of water?
>
> Bob Klein
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: elec-trak-bounces cosmos phy tufts edu
> [mailto:elec-trak-bounces cosmos phy tufts edu] On Behalf Of David Roden
> Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2006 11:07 AM
> To: elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
> Subject: Re: (ET) painting, using Extend
>
>
> On 7 Jun 2006 at 8:00, tbamc wrote:
>
>> FWIW, I used Extend (brush on) on a few places on a car, many years
>> ago.  After all the time and effort I spent trying to get rid of that
>> rust, I was really PO'd to find it was back--under the paint--just a
>> few years later.
>
> I don't recall what brand it was, but I tried some kind of "rust 
> converter,"
>
> advertised to change rust to a paintable surface, and the same thing
> happened to me.
>
> In some cases on cars, the rust is from the reverse side of the panel, 
> and
> nothing you can do short of replacing the rusting section will really 
> stop
> it.  But in this case I had access to both sides of the metal.  I treated
> both sides with the stuff, and primed and painted according to 
> directions.
> About 2 years later, it's rusted again.
>
> My experience is that unless you remove every speck of rust before 
> priming,
> the rust will eventually return under the paint.  This means getting down
> into all those darn pits that the rust makes.  I really don't think the
> "rust converters" are as effective as mechanical rust removal followed by
> the application of an etchant, or sandblasting.
>
>
> David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
>
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