The commercially available "Rust Converters" as talked about on these
threads came from coating systems developed for the off-shore oil rigs and
have proven themselves in that harsh environment. I have used them
extensively on boat trailers subject to saltwater immersion and have never
had the problems stated here.
If properly applied, that means exposing all the iron oxide (rust) to the
phosphoric acid component of the rust converter, you will be left with
Iron Phosphate and it will not rust again.
Question: How routinely do you wash down your batteries and battery
compartments with prodigious amounts of water?
Bob Klein
-----Original Message-----
From: elec-trak-bounces cosmos phy tufts edu [mailto:elec-trak-bounces
cosmos phy tufts edu] On Behalf Of David Roden
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2006 11:07 AM
To: elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
Subject: Re: (ET) painting, using Extend
On 7 Jun 2006 at 8:00, tbamc wrote:
> FWIW, I used Extend (brush on) on a few places on a car, many years
> ago. After all the time and effort I spent trying to get rid of that
> rust, I was really PO'd to find it was back--under the paint--just a few
> years
> later.
I don't recall what brand it was, but I tried some kind of "rust
converter,"
advertised to change rust to a paintable surface, and the same thing
happened to me.
In some cases on cars, the rust is from the reverse side of the panel, and
nothing you can do short of replacing the rusting section will really stop
it. But in this case I had access to both sides of the metal. I treated
both sides with the stuff, and primed and painted according to directions.
About 2 years later, it's rusted again.
My experience is that unless you remove every speck of rust before
priming,
the rust will eventually return under the paint. This means getting down
into all those darn pits that the rust makes. I really don't think the
"rust converters" are as effective as mechanical rust removal followed by
the application of an etchant, or sandblasting.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
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