(ET) RE: E20 Wiring Diagram

["Raymon Ellis" <raymonellis adelphia net>]

Mike, I understand that CB-1 opens to cut the current to everything at some high temperature in the original E20 circuit. I may need to rewire the main motor back into CB-1. I removed it from the motor circuit to shorten the path. It is still on the motor and will sense a prohibitive temperature increase and stop the PTO. My very light use of the tractor without the mower probably will not overload the motor since I have a small 150 amp fusible link on the main cutoff switch and Steve sent me an ANN 250 amp fuse to put on the B- battery bus to protect the controller.

This afternoon I cut some very high grass down at the road and in my front yard for about 1 ½ hrs and the small fuses held up OK. What do you think now that you know about the fuses? Is it safe to leave the main motor out of the CB-1 circuit?

I also learned that you may reverse direction of the tractor while mowing when in cruise control without changing the dash pot setting. To pick up short corner rows you simply flip the backup switch for a short distance and then flip it back for quick return to your prior speed. That is better than the original!! Thanks, Raymon

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Wallace [mailto:metman glasgow-ky com]
Sent: Saturday, July 02, 2005 5:51 PM
To: Raymon Ellis
Subject: Re: E20 Wiring Diagram

 

Raymon,

 

[5. The main contactor is a double one which drops back to a set of normally closed points when turned off. The charger is wired through these points to prevent turning on the charger when the DCX300 ET is powered. Steve Richardson said this is good.]

 

Now that is a really good idea that I will incorporate into my upgrade also. 

 

 

[3. The large biscuit circuit breaker on main motor connects only the PTO and not the main motor. If the mower stops I’ll know the motor is hot and cool it.]

 

Now this one has me a little confused.  Do you mean the Klixon breaker mounted on the motor?  Is it still mounted on the motor but wired differently?  What is the advantage of doing this?  Do you have any sort of over current protection for the motor armature or the Alltrax?

 

Thanks,

Mike

 

 

----- Original Message -----

From: Raymon Ellis

To: metman glasgow-ky com

Cc: elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu

Sent: Saturday, July 02, 2005 8:38 AM

Subject: E20 Wiring Diagram

 

Mike Wallace wrote comments on E20 conversion and requested pictures. I’ll have to report the following: My PC camera has a fixed focus when used away from the PC so the pictures are not the best. I took some pictures yesterday in the sunlight of the workings behind the panels but you could not tell what you were viewing when connected to the PC so I deleted them. One day I may get a better camera. I sent my wife the same pictures on her PC and she said they were good. She has Explorer 6.0. There probably is something wrong on my PC because the pictures you sent me were just large red blobs with no details at all. I have seen your very good work on pictures sent by Steve Richardson so I think I already have them on file.

Here is what’s behind the panels:

1. Behind the main panel on the left is a connector strip holding the diode and the resistor called for in the schematic followed by a 10 position connector strip for connections to the Curtis pots and the DCX300 ET to easily test and correct wiring.

2. I kept the connector block projecting down from the dash cutting off the wires inches below the block to connect with new wires and labeled each wire. Staples has a white 1” round print or write Mailing seal label 05247 which works OK for me. Use an ink pen to write the description along the perforation in the center of the label and fold it around the wire. Cut off the excess label close to the wire for a neat job. You can’t get it off!

3. The large biscuit circuit breaker on main motor connects only the PTO and not the main motor. If the mower stops I’ll know the motor is hot and cool it.

4. I pick up power for the controller after the key, seat, and brake switches like the AllTrax schematic. The DCX300 ET is mounted on the right with the top about 1” above opening.

5. The main contactor is a double one which drops back to a set of normally closed points when turned off. The charger is wired through these points to prevent turning on the charger when the DCX300 ET is powered. Steve Richardson said this is good.

6. A small computer light fiber optic tube is positioned to pick up the led signals from the DCX300 ET and goes through the dashboard near the cruise control switch. Very helpful.

7. A dash pot, same as in the Curtis, is mounted to the right of the key where the power plus switch existed. A thin piece of phenolic board was cut to fit into the hole to level the area and a hole was drilled to secure the pot behind a large washer. The lighted Cruise Control switch is connected to transfer pot duties from the pedal to the dash pot. It works perfectly.

8. The dash pot is controlled by a small relay just as described by Ralph Vogan on his website. Be sure the hold coil power comes from the middle tab on the start switch.

9. The PTO is controlled by a new double connector with the normally closed points connecting the cables same as in the old open switch. It works OK.

I hope this explains everything to all concerned. Thank you, Raymon