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Jim Coate wrote that the power meter is connected in parallel with the shunt and measures the voltage drop across the shunt. My meter which blew was connected that way. I don’t however know what the effective resistance was of the copper shunt. The shunt was purchases after the original copper shunt turned red hot and actually blazed with the first controller failure. Right now I get of crazy resistance readings across the shunt which was connected parallel to the blown meter. I don’t trust the shunt or my testing ohmmeter. Now someone please tell me why the original in-line fuse did not blow with the large surge of current? Does an old original wire type fuse remain effective to protect? When I connect my replacement controller I will use a new in-line fuse which Steve Richardson is sending in the package. Further comments from all will be appreciated. Raymon |