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Re: (ET) More lift motor thoughts



Keep in mind a car is not usually 12 volts, it is more like 13.8.  Any chance of puting a loop of low gage wire as a current limit resistor? 

Christopher Zach <czach computer org> wrote:
> I think your rear is on the wrong taps. They should BOTH be run off "18V".
> Getting the taps wrong is REAL common. Even though I can count batteries, checking
> with a volt meter saves some work and money later. The motor will run on 24V... for
> about 3 up and down cycles...then the insulation melts.

Nope. I checked the voltage: 19 volts or so right after the motor died.
I have a 24 volt tap on the back of the tractor, but that's an Anderson
plug and used for the Homelite stuff (which has not blown up despite it
being 18 volt equipment)

Now I am running it at 12 volts and it seems a lot happier.

> In addition; GE did NOT re-wind the motor; it's a standard "12V" automotive motor.
> They knew the duty cycle, which is part of what governs the winding temperature,
> would be short. This is not unique. The starter motor in your car would melt if
> you ran it at the nominal 12-14V for say 1/2 hour. The torque on a motor is proportional
> to the current in the windings times the number of winds. The torque does not
> know anything about voltage, BUT; the to get the current up requires voltage. To get
> the current REAL high requires MORE voltage. That's when ohmic losses come and carry
> you away; voltage=current times resistance. To get more windings you use small gauge
> wire, which is higher resistance. In addition, the wire resistance increases with
> temperature. This is something every motor designer deals with. So if a motor is not
> expected to see continuous duty; the lift motor or a starter motor, you just design for
> that case and hope no one tries to run it too long.

Hm. Then it's possible that Delco made different types of motors. I'll
post some pictures of the armature, but I will say it went from creamy
perfect to cremated. I ran it on 12 volts for about 10 minutes with nary
a problem, so I don't think it was a short. And just about all of the
windings on the armature were turned into burned caramel, so I don't
think it was a single short.

The other thing was the amount of commutator crud. I literally sanded
down the commutator with fine-grit paper just to make it shine. And the
condition of the field windings; they were burned and shorted.

Chris

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