RE: (ET) cable terminals - was:Looking for a great deal on batterycables:Chck out this one-bay.

["Chris Tromley" <chris_t microtrac com>]

Chris Zach wrote:

>  From what I've heard on the EV lists, the problem with the ring and 
> stud is that the bolt comes loose over time which leads to a 
> loose cable 
> which leads to a melted post. The traditional clamps don't seem to 
> loosen as much and have more surface area contact.
> 
> Granted, I think this has some bearing on what you do with your 
> Elec-Trak. Mowing on a flat surface and that's it isn't going to draw 
> the kind of amps that running a snowblower and chains will.

Chris makes a good point about the studded battery posts.  I believe that
design came about as a solution for golf carts, which rarely encounter 
large
current draws.  ETs however, can draw big amps when snowblowing or tilling.
I'm considering running a vacuum cart and mowing at the same time.  Others
have probably had different "creative" ideas that draw big amps.

The studs are cast into the posts, meaning lead is between the head of the
stud and the terminal.  Big amps make heat, the lead flows, the joint
loosens, resistance goes up, causing more heat, etc.  Soon you have a 
melted
post.  Automotive posts have far more contact area and cause much less flow
in the lead.  Not only that, they reduce the overall height of the
battery/cable assembly.  I'm hoping that's enough to allow me to use 
retired
T-145 (a little taller than the more common T-105/T-125) style batteries
from my EV in my EGT 150.

My tractor currently has homemade cables using wimpy wire and clamp-on
automotive terminals.  No problems so far, but these make me really queasy.
When it's time for new batteries I want to re-cable with much heavier cable
and proper crimp-on automotive terminals.  I'm thinking 00 cable is 
probably
overkill, 0 is about right.

Here's my question:  Is there anything in the design of these tractors that
relies on somewhat undersize cables?  I seem to remember some comments here
to that effect, but I can't remember.  Something like a needed voltage 
drop?
Does this ring any bells for anyone?  Oh, and a related question: does
anyone know how the color bands translate to amps on the "power" meter?

Chris Tromley
near Philadelphia  PA  USA

100% Gas-Free Yard Equipment:
* Avco New Idea EGT 150 electric tractor
  with mid-mount mower deck and snow blade
* B&D corded electric mower and string trimmer
* Patriot 1.5 hp electric chipper/shredder/vac
* Remington Garden Wizard corded electric tiller
* Craftsman corded electric snow thrower