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Re: (ET) Replacing main disconnect



    It takes a sustained 200A load to vaporize the OEM fuse link.
The switch kit that Tech Parts formerly sold retained the fuse link by providing a piece of plastic with the switch to mount it on . As soon as my server is restored after a domain hijacking incident, I will scan and post the instructions that Bill had provided.

----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Zach" <czach computer org>
To: "Elec-trak list" <elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2004 7:50 PM
Subject: (ET) Replacing main disconnect


Well, I replaced the main disconnect this evening.

I can see why the old one was getting hot: It's a lousy design. The spring can't put enough tension on the plate anymore, and thus the connection cross-section is really small.

So I put in one of the EVParts.com ones. Nice and big. You have to take a file and slightly enlarge the hole on the E20 (not too bad) and the suds are *much* larger. For the main wires I used a circular file to widen the holes, and for the PTO line and the little sense line I just put on 10 gauge crimps. We'll see how they hold.

Quick test drive showed the tractor driving quite a bit better. The disconnect studs were cold at the end; and the tractor just felt more "snappy" in all speeds. A worth it upgrade; we'll see this weekend after I mow the lawn again.

Now the big question is how it's going to perform in the winter with only thoe crimped connections, especially the one for the take off. I had to use a wide loop lug since the bolt is bigger, but that does leave less surface area for contact.

Also what do people do about the now lack of fuse? I'm thinking of putting a fuse in series with the batteries, but what size? Would a 200 amp fuse do, or should I go to 150 or so? It's gotta be significant since I do blow snow with this thing.

Chris


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