Re: (ET) E12 motor testing

["steves" <ssawtelle fcc net>]

I haven't rebuilt one in a while, but those holes may have something to do
with holding the brushes back during reassembly. I wouldn't go putting oil
in there without being sure it won't get on the brushes. It's pretty
straightforward to change out the bearings if you have a bearing puller. 
The
bearings are a common metric size.

Oh yeah, congrats on the motor test!

SteveS


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John E. Baker" <john e baker snet net>
To: "Elec-trac Elec-trac" <>
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2004 10:32 PM
Subject: Re: (ET) E12 motor testing


> Yes! It works!  I bolted it down to a workbench and used a standard
automotive battery charger connected to a switched power strip, so, no
sparks.  A little noisy, and I noticed two holes in the casing above where 
I
guess the bearings are located.  Would it be ok to add oil, or are these
holes for some other purpose?
>
> Jeb Baker
>
> steves <ssawtelle fcc net> wrote:
> Surpised the golf cart shop couldn't figure it out..... but...
>
> - The Klixon part is the thermal cutoff switch - it just opens if the
motor
> gets too hot. With an ohmmeter you should see it is shorted normally. You
> don't need to include it in the test setup.
>
> - The E12 motor is pretty much a shunt wound motor. The armature gets the
> bulk of the current and the large posts are used to attach the armature
> wires. The small connections are for the field winding which takes much
less
> current. It is a shunt motor in that the connection is a shunt 
> connection,
> ie: field and armature are in parallel.
>
> - Before testing , be sure the motor turns freely by hand.
>
> - To test, simply hook up one field contact to one armature contact and
the
> other field contact to the other amature contact. Then apply your power
> source across the armature contacts. The direction of the various
> connections will determine what direction the motor spins. Be sure the
field
> winding is well connected - if it gets loose, the motor will overrev.
>
> - DANGER DANGER!!!! Do not do this test with the motor unsecured! These
> things develop a lot of torque - something I learned with a 'little' 
> mower
> motor. You also WANT to test with a small 12V battery as that will also
> reduce the torque, but still run the motor. You will get some large 
> sparks
> too. Be prepared. Also think about what you will do when the cable you
touch
> to the motor gets welded to the motor- Have a helper and a backup
disconnect
> (jumper cables will work). Don't mean to be too alarmist, but just be
safe.
>
> - SteveS
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "John E. Baker"
> To: <>
> Sent: Monday, April 19, 2004 10:25 AM
> Subject: (ET) E12 motor testing
>
>
> > I'm still trying to get my free E12 running.
> > I took off the GE motor and brought it to a GolfCart repair shop. They
> thought they could test it but then called and refused, saying they had 
> no
> idea how to test without knowing what the different contacts and cables
were
> for.
> > Is there someway I could bench test this motor with a couple of
> batteries and/or a standard car battery charger? There are two small (18
> guage I think)wires plugged into the middle of the motor, and two large
> posts at the end of the motor. I'm guessing that these large posts 
> receive
> the most juice from the controller, but what do the little wires do?
> >
> > There is also a bolted on "Klixon" part (#CDLA-80) that I can remove.
Not
> sure what that is for either.
> >
> > Jeb Baker
> >
> >
>
>
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