Yes! It works! I bolted it down to a workbench and used a standard automotive battery charger connected to a switched power strip, so, no sparks. A little noisy, and I noticed two holes in the casing above where I guess the bearings are located. Would it be ok to add oil, or are these holes for some other purpose?
Jeb Baker
steves <ssawtelle fcc net> wrote:
Surpised the golf cart shop couldn't figure it out..... but...
- The Klixon part is the thermal cutoff switch - it just opens if the motor
gets too hot. With an ohmmeter you should see it is shorted normally. You
don't need to include it in the test setup.
- The E12 motor is pretty much a shunt wound motor. The armature gets the
bulk of the current and the large posts are used to attach the armature
wires. The small connections are for the field winding which takes much less
current. It is a shunt motor in that the connection is a shunt connection,
ie: field and armature are in parallel.
- Before testing , be sure the motor turns freely by hand.
- To test, simply hook up one field contact to one armature contact and the
other field contact to the other amature contact. Then apply your power
source across the armature contacts. The
direction of the various
connections will determine what direction the motor spins. Be sure the field
winding is well connected - if it gets loose, the motor will overrev.
- DANGER DANGER!!!! Do not do this test with the motor unsecured! These
things develop a lot of torque - something I learned with a 'little' mower
motor. You also WANT to test with a small 12V battery as that will also
reduce the torque, but still run the motor. You will get some large sparks
too. Be prepared. Also think about what you will do when the cable you touch
to the motor gets welded to the motor- Have a helper and a backup disconnect
(jumper cables will work). Don't mean to be too alarmist, but just be safe.
- SteveS
----- Original Message -----
From: "John E. Baker"
To: <>
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2004 10:25 AM
Subject: (ET) E12 motor testing
> I'm still trying to get my free E12 running.
>
I took off the GE motor and brought it to a GolfCart repair shop. They
thought they could test it but then called and refused, saying they had no
idea how to test without knowing what the different contacts and cables were
for.
> Is there someway I could bench test this motor with a couple of
batteries and/or a standard car battery charger? There are two small (18
guage I think)wires plugged into the middle of the motor, and two large
posts at the end of the motor. I'm guessing that these large posts receive
the most juice from the controller, but what do the little wires do?
>
> There is also a bolted on "Klixon" part (#CDLA-80) that I can remove. Not
sure what that is for either.
>
> Jeb Baker
>
>
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