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Bob,
Make sure the two interlock switches are working. The seat and brake are the ones. You have to be on the seat and the brake has to be off. Both switches have been known to get out of adjustment or wear out. With the main switch on and the key switch on and the break switch off, pressing down on the seat switch should cause a relay to click. Remember you just purchased a consumer tractor that is 30 plus years old. Lots of stuff will need to be looked at, but that is the fun of the Elec-trak!
The loud popping sound may have been the charger, check the diodes and the cap. Running the tractor only on the charger is not a good idea. Also make sure the motor pulley has not worn through the insulation on the wires that run next to the frame under the tractor.
Dwight
Dwight L. Hazen, Indiana University, UITS Bloomington, In. 47408-7378 812-855-5367 IP phone 812-856-9229 hazen indiana edu http://php.ucs.indiana.edu/~hazen/ Ham Radio wb9tlh arrl net http://wb9tlh.ampr.us "The complexity of your life is directly proportional to how many gas engines you own - 2 cycles count double."
-----Original Message-----
Hello, this group is a god send and I hope that someone can shed some light on my current problem. I purchased an E20 from a listing in this group, a few months ago. Long story, but tractor was supposed to be in running condition when I had it shipped to me from out-of-state location. Owner of tractor was in Bolivia, tractor was at daughters house in Colorado - many emails back and forth related to the purchase, etc. Tractor came with snow blower, tiller and mower deck, etc. Owner stated that he last used tractor some 8 months ago and all was functioning, minus 1 mower motor, at that time. Needless to say the tractor did not work when it arrived at my location. I tried a charge on the existing batteries which proved to be bad. Replaced them with some sealed agm's that I had from a solar array project - batteries are good ones. Tractor would seem to function with the charger connected to a/c, but not with the batteries. Took me some time to figure out that the power disconnect needed to be pushed in - not just turned to up posistion as manual states, for circuit to be completed. First time I pushed in disconnect I heard front battery (1 - 12volt) starting to churn and I figured it was probably from the 24volts being delivered from the 4 - 6volt rear series batteries. Power on the tractor still did not work with batteries on system, no drive motor or direction switch showing power. Next thing I did was plug it back into charger unit and heard a loud pop sound from what I thought was below tractor. Now when I try to bring tractor back on line with the disconnect engaged or disunengaged and charger plugged in - I have no activity at all, tractor is completely dead. I have checked all the obvious things, fuses and cb2 breaker, but everything seems normal. Can anyone point me in a troubleshooting mode that I am overlooking?
Thanks in advance.
BobK
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