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Re: (ET) mower blades



I have a new, rear discharge, no-baffles deck. I have the blades that Bill Gunn sells. I have no idea if they are high lift or not. The deck cuts great and is even. The one thing this deck does have is a plate that stiffens the motor mounts and keeps the deck straight. If you get an uneven cut, I am willing to bet that your blades are not all in the same plane and it is due to deflection and bending in deck itself.
John Briese
I5


From: "Christopher Zach" <czach computer org>
To: "Humphrey Timothy H Contr AFRL/IFEC" <Timothy Humphrey rl af mil>,"elec-trak" <elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
Subject: Re: (ET) mower blades
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 09:56:41 -0400

Well, on my E20, the rear-discharge deck does a pretty good job of cutting
the lawn and not leaving a mess. I do cut in L, cruise speed so it's
somewhat slow. And I do run with the "high lift" blades. However unless the
grass is *tall* it does a great job and doesn't leave many clumps on the
lawn.

Note: I do have the baffles in there. I think they are very important.

Chris

----- Original Message -----
From: "Humphrey Timothy H Contr AFRL/IFEC" <Timothy Humphrey rl af mil>
To: "elec-trak" <elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2003 9:49 AM
Subject: RE: (ET) mower blades


> My theory is that cutting in reverse automatically turns the deck into a
> mulcher. The grass is kept inside the deck much longer than if mowing in
> forward. The deck is forced to keep on cutting the grass until it no
longer
> has the surface area required for the blades to be able to pick it up and
it
> stays on the lawn. Otherwise it is just spit out the "back" and picked up
> again a second later to be rechopped and spit out the "back" where the
> process repeats until the grass escapes either out the sides/front or has
> been liquified.
>
> The side discharge decks cut better, right?
>
> I wonder what the effect would be if we removed the baffles, and installed
> both the side and rear covers. Thus making the deck sealed. Much like a
> mulcher deck.
>
> Stay Charged!
>
> Hump
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Pestka, Dennis J [mailto:Dennis Pestka TycoHealthcare com]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2003 9:29 AM
> To: 'Barry Woods'; Eric; elec-trak
> Subject: RE: (ET) mower blades
>
>
> Barry;
>
> If you look at the archives you will see some discussion on cutting in
> reverse. I think a lot of us agree that the front mounted mower deck cuts > much better in reverse than forward. Don't know if anyone has figured out
> why, but may be worth looking in to. I recall that someone was even
talking
> about mounting their mower backwards. I don't know if they ever did this,
or
> how it worked.
>
> Dennis
> Elsberry, MO
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Barry Woods [mailto:barry woods wright edu]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2003 8:20 AM
> To: Eric; elec-trak
> Subject: Re: (ET) mower blades
>
>
> Thanks for the info, Eric.  It's somewhat disappointing to know we can't
> equip the decks for mulching, but oh well.  Like you I still love my
> Elec-Trak and would rather have an uneven lawn than go back to a gas
mower.
>
> I suspect the high current draw was due to the greater air resistances of > the gatorblades versus the weight. As I mentioned I had double blades on > each of my deck motors with them mounted perpendicular to each other (i.e.
> like a +).  I saw no difference in current draw.  And they cut slightly
> better, but would not stay perpendicular.  I didn't try them in heavy
grass
> so they might have overheated the motors in that case.  I also have no
> baffles in my deck so there is probably even less back pressure than in
> decks with baffles. I might still give gatorblades a try and see how they
> work in a baffleless deck
>
> What we really need, as you say Eric, is to find a compatible set of
> high-lift conventional blades.  So the great search will continue.
>
>
> Barry
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Eric" <E-max sbcglobal net>
> To: "elec-trak" <elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2003 2:11 AM
> Subject: Re: (ET) mower blades
>
>
> > Hello Barry,
> >    I did use a set of the Gator mulching blades several years ago. I
> posted
> > to the list the results of my experience, but I failed to find a copy
> > of
> my
> > original posting from back then. It may be in the archive. Basically
> > the Gator blades were considerably thicker than the ET blades which
> > added additional weight and pulled more amps to the point the motors
> > were
> getting
> > too hot to tough and did trip the breaker.
> >    The Gator blade size is the same as one of the Dixie Chopper 42"
> mowers.
> > I
> > had made bushings to fit inside the center 5/8" hole. A second problem
> > I
> had
> > was the height of the "wing". Since I was using the rear discharge
> baffling
> > the higher "wing" on the Gator Blade would not clear the baffle.  I
> > had to remove about 1/2" of material so the blade would spin and not
> > hit the baffling. With the higher wing more amps are required to spin
> > the blade. I don't remember what the total amp draw was (check my
> > original posting) but it did shorten my mowing time. But... my lawn
> > did look 100% better which I credit to the higher wings that lift up
> > the grass and then cut it off
> giving
> > to lawn a nice even cut. I was using an E12m tractor with the larger
> > diameter motors for this experiment.
> >    My suggestion would be to have blades that are still as thin and
> > light
> as
> > the ET blades with a little more wing lift, but not so that the motors
> will
> > over heat. I should also mention with higher wings on the blades the
> > noise level will also increase.
> >    I love my ET but I do wish it had a better cut.
> >      Eric & Tracie Miller
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: SteveS <ssawtelle fcc net>
> > To: <elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
> > Sent: Monday, May 19, 2003 11:30 AM
> > Subject: Re: (ET) mower blades
> >
> >
> > > A quick check at McMaster doesn't show a reducing bushing (like for
> > circular
> > > saws) that go from 5/16 to anything. But for a test setup I could
> > > make a
> > set
> > > of three - just give me the diameter of the blade's mounting hole
> > > and
> your
> > > address, Barry.
> > >
> > > I'd be careful about making the blades longer - add up wobble,
> vibration,
> > > etc and there could be trouble!
> > >
> > > I seem to recall Eric Miller told me he was playing around with
> different
> > > blades. As I remember, heavier blades added significant load to the
> mower
> > > motors. Eric, you out there?
> > >
> > > - SteveS
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Barry Woods" <barry woods wright edu>
> > > To: "Dave & Debbie Barden" <daveb seanet com>; <>
> > > Sent: Monday, May 19, 2003 12:42 PM
> > > Subject: Re: (ET) mower blades
> > >
> > >
> > > > I will contact Gatorblade about doing this.  I would like for
> > > > someone
> to
> > > > double check my dimensions on the blade length and center hole,
> > > > before
> I
> > > do.
> > > > Once again, I got 14 1/2" length with a 5/16" center hole.  It
> > > > looks
> > like
> > > > there is a little clearance between the blades, so we might be
> > > > able to
> > go
> > > up
> > > > to 14 7/8".
> > > >
> > > >  If someone who has the ability to make a bushing (or could find a
> > > > compatible one) would try a set of Gatorblades, we can well how
> > > > well
> > they
> > > > work on an Elec-Trak deck before we commit to Gatorblade.
> > > >
> > > > If they work well, an alternative would be to have someone who has
> > > > the ability to make a compatible bushing, like Timothy or Bill
> > > > Gunn, see
> if
> > he
> > > > would be willing to make and sell them to the group.  We could
> > > > then
> use
> > > > these bushings on stock Gatorblades.
> > > >
> > > > Barry
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Dave & Debbie Barden" <daveb seanet com>
> > > > To: <Don Barry kirbycorp com>; <elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>;
> > > > <barry woods wright edu>
> > > > Sent: Monday, May 19, 2003 4:25 AM
> > > > Subject: Re: (ET) mower blades
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > I would buy one or two sets.
> > > > > dave
> > > > > seattle
> > > > >
> > > > > > A better question: If we could get Gatorblade to make some
> > > > > > blades
> > for
> > > > us, how
> > > > > many of us
> > > > > would particpate in a GROUP BUY of the blades??
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Count me in for 2 sets!
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Don Barry
> > > > > > E-15
> > > > > > Houston
> > > > > >
> > > > > > >>> Barry Woods <barry woods wright edu> 05/19/03 09:05AM >>>
> > > > > > Has anyone had any luck in finding a set of high-lift blades
> > > > > > to
> fit
> > > the
> > > > 42"
> > > > > > front mount mowing deck?  The blades I ordered from  Bill Gunn
> have
> > > very
> > > > > > little lift and the appearance of the lawn after cutting, even
> with
> > > > freshly
> > > > > > sharpened blades, is disappointing.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > If my measurements are correct, the blades look to be 14 1/2"
> > > > > > in
> > > length
> > > > and
> > > > > > the center hole seems to be about 5/16".  I can find 14 1/2"
> blades
> > > but
> > > > > > nothing with a center hole that small.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I tried mounting two blades on each motor, at right angles
> > > > > > with
> the
> > > > fiber
> > > > > > washer between them. It did give somewhat better lift and did
> > > > > > not
> > seem
> > > > to
> > > > > > draw anymore current, but no matter how hard I tighten them
> > > > > > they
> > will
> > > > not
> > > > > > stay perpendicular to each other and one will swing around and
> stop
> > > > directly
> > > > > > under the other after mowing  row or two and them the
> > > > > > advantage of
> > two
> > > > is
> > > > > > lost.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Gatorblades make a mulching blade that does not require a
> > > > > > closed
> > deck.
> > > > I
> > > > > > figure this would stop some of the back pressure and not draw
> > > > > > as
> > much
> > > > > > current as a regular mulching blade would  with the discharge
> chute
> > > > blocked
> > > > > > off.  I contacted them (gatorblade.com), but they said they do
> > > > > > not
> > > have
> > > > that
> > > > > > would fit.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Any suggestions?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > > Barry
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > E-15, Dayton, OH
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > > From: "Christopher Zach" <czach computer org>
> > > > > > To: <wombat dssinternet net>;
> > > > > > <elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>;
> > "Dave
> > > &
> > > > > > Debbie Barden" <daveb seanet com>
> > > > > > Sent: Monday, May 19, 2003 9:44 AM
> > > > > > Subject: Re: (ET) ryobi
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > Well, the Prizm's running voltage is 300 volts at 52
> > > > > > > amp-hours.
> > Thus
> > > > the
> > > > > > > batteries are run in two strings of 25, connected at the
> > > > > > > ends by
> > > > > > contactors.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Pretty high voltage. However the car can *move* since the
> > batteries
> > > > can
> > > > > > > deliver 4C without sagging too much (200amp max draw at 300
> volts
> > is
> > > a
> > > > lot
> > > > > > > of power).
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > The Hawker Genesis batteries are probably the best in the
> > business.
> > > > They
> > > > > > > will crank a V-8 motor without trouble, and I have used one
> > > > > > > on
> my
> > > > garden
> > > > > > > tractor for a year with no trouble. I think the max current
> > > > > > > you
> > can
> > > > draw
> > > > > > on
> > > > > > > them is something like a thousand amps. And they weigh only
> > > > > > > 24
> > > pounds
> > > > > > each.
> > > > > > > Small, compact, high power.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I am thinking of wiring up three of the old ones together
> > > > > > > and
> > seeing
> > > > how
> > > > > > far
> > > > > > > they take the Elec-trak (loaded with 6 volt batteries of
> > > > > > > course
> > :-)
> > > > Based
> > > > > > on
> > > > > > > my calculations, six of them (two strings of 3) should
> > > > > > > provide
> > > enough
> > > > > > power
> > > > > > > to run the tractor for 30 minutes or so.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Chris
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > > > From: "Dave & Debbie Barden" <daveb seanet com>
> > > > > > > To: <czach computer org>; <wombat dssinternet net>;
> > > > > > > <elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
> > > > > > > Sent: Monday, May 19, 2003 2:26 AM
> > > > > > > Subject: Re: (ET) ryobi
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > 54?!  how did you wire them, what's the pack voltage?
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > this wkend I just got a sears cordless mower running that
> > > > > > > > I
> > > rescued
> > > > from
> > > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > dump.  The 24v charger came in the mail friday, the 12v
> > > > > > > > sealed
> > > batts
> > > > > > > measured
> > > > > > > > 2.2volts each!  but after 2 days on the charger came up to
> > 12.7v.
> > > I
> > > > ran
> > > > > > > it but
> > > > > > > > only for a coupla seconds.  my charger did the same thing
> > > > > > > > only
> > the
> > > > green
> > > > > > > > "ready" led ever lit up.  the red "charging" led never has
> come
> > > on.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > there's not much grass here in my neighborhood here in
> > > > > > > > town to
> > > test
> > > > it
> > > > > > on
> > > > > > > so
> > > > > > > > I'll have to wait till next wkend when I bring it the
> > > > > > > > farm.  I
> > > plan
> > > > to
> > > > > > use
> > > > > > > it
> > > > > > > > for the lawn in close to the house and flower beds and the
> > E-trac
> > > on
> > > > the
> > > > > > > other
> > > > > > > > 1/2 ac of lawn.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > dave
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Could also be that after sitting for years the battery
> > > > > > > > > is
> > fully
> > > > > > > sulfated.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > If it's a 12 volt 26amp/hour battery then they cost $50
> > > > > > > > > new
> > from
> > > > > > > > > www.surplusev.com. I just bought 54 of them for my
> > > > > > > > > electric
> > car;
> > > > > > really
> > > > > > > nice
> > > > > > > > > batteries. Have been thinking of trying to run the E20
> > > > > > > > > with
> a
> > > set
> > > > of
> > > > > > six
> > > > > > > of
> > > > > > > > > them :-)
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Chris
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > > > > > From: "Neil Dennis" <wombat dssinternet net>
> > > > > > > > > To: "Elec-trak" <elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
> > > > > > > > > Sent: Monday, May 19, 2003 8:42 AM
> > > > > > > > > Subject: (ET) ryobi
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > I've got probably the same model, the battery
> > > > > > > > > > indicated
> > > > "charged'
> > > > > > > after
> > > > > > > > > > running the charger for several hours but wouldn't
> > > > > > > > > > start
> the
> > > > mower.
> > > > > > > If
> > > > > > > > > > I remember, I found an open connection somewhere,
> > > > > > > > > > after
> > > fixing,
> > > > the
> > > > > > > > > > mower would run with the charger plugged in but about
> > > > > > > > > > a
> > minute
> > > > on
> > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > > batt.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > It sits in my garage, too cheap to try and find a new
> batt,
> > > > wonder
> > > > > > > what
> > > > > > > > > > they cost.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > wombat
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
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> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>



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