Re: (ET) advice needed

["SteveS" <ssawtelle fcc net>]

Hmmm..

Does the PTO work (mower runs) ? If it does then at least part of the
controller card is ok.

And you are sure the reverse relay is energizing? (also runs off controller
card).

If the above are working, then it may be a bad start switch or connection 
in
that circuit, since if it doesn't function nothing else will (in the motor
circuit). The start switch comes in on contacts 5 and 6 of the controller
card (wires 28 and 29 I think). For it to function the key switch, seat
switch , and brake switch must all be functional. Check for voltage on 
those
in that order. Oh yeah, you bypassed the last two. Then at least look for
voltage on the start switch. If the PTO and/or reverse relay work, then the
key switch and seat switch (or bypass) are ok.



----- Original Message -----
From: "Barry Woods" <barry woods wright edu>
To: "SteveS" <ssawtelle fcc net>
Cc: <>
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2002 11:43 AM
Subject: Re: (ET) advice needed


> Thanks Steve,
>
> I was checking for  36v going to the coils of the contactors and didn't
> find any voltage. I don't hear the contactors making any effort to drop
> in.   The fuel meter is functioning properly and the use meter seems to
> work as it does indicate a small load when the lights are turned on.  I
> didn't check for voltage on the relay contacts, will give that a try.
>
> Thanks for the tips.
>
> Barry
>
>
>
> >I'll take a shot.
> >
> >1. First most electrical problems are due to bad connections. Wiggle
wires
> >first. Good places to check are the reversing relay and field 
> >connections
to
> >the motor.
> >
> >2. Working lift, lights, and accessory outlet means the basics are ok,
but
> >that leaves a fair amount unchecked.
> >
> >3. You mention not seeing voltage at the contactors. On the coil
contacts,
> >relay contacts, both? Please explain a bit what and how you are 
> >measuring
> >here.
> >
> >4. If the reverse relay is actually clicking, then you have power to the
> >control board and Fuse 3 is ok.  The fuel gauge shoudl be indicating if
Fuse
> >3 is ok.  Assuming this is true then you need to walk thru the motor
> >circuit.
> >
> >5. With motor drive on (and gearbox in neutral and hair, etc out of 
> >range
of
> >the belts and pulleys) check voltages at the motor armature and field
> >connections. If they aren't present there then back up thru the 2A, 1A,
and
> >L contactors.
> >
> >I assume you have the schematic. It is very helpful in tracing things
out.
> >
> >SteveS
> >E12S (pretty much like your E15)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Barry Woods" <barry woods wright edu>
> >To: <>
> >Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2002 9:50 AM
> >Subject: (ET) advice needed
> >
> >
> > >
> > > It would be appreciated if some advice could be given on getting an
E-15
> >up
> > > and running.  It has new batteries, the charger works fine, there is
> > > 36volts on the accessory outlet, the lights work and there is power
going
> > > to the lift motor.  It is basically dead as far as the drive motor
> > > goes.  When the master disconnect is connected and the key switch is
on,
> > > there is no effect whatsoever when the throttle control is pushed
> > > forward.  I can't measure any voltage on the contactors.  When the
> >throttle
> > > is put into reverse, the reverse relay behind the dashboard will
"click
> >in"
> > > but still no other action and no voltage to the contactors.  I have
> > > bypassed the seat and brake switch temporarily just to make sure they
are
> > > not the culprit.
> > >
> > > Does anyone have any idea where I should go from here?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Barry
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
>
> Barry B. Woods
> Asst. Chair,  Department of  Electrical Engineering
>
>
> Wright State University
> 3640 Colonel Glenn Highway
> 311 Russ Engineering Center
> Office Phone:  937-775-5037
> Fax:  937-775-3936
>
>
>