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What was the condition of the weld, in that area? Some of
those are pretty sad looking.
RJ Kanary
Member TRNi Since 1998
ASE® Certified Master Auto
Technician
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 7:08 PM
Subject: Re: (ET) Shock repair
followup
Agreed with the roll pin breaking, but mine broke off where
the inner sliding part joins the spherical (is that right?) bearing at the
mower end. I'm not too surprised at that, but what is a concern is the mower
deck tilting up so easily when in reverse.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 6:41
PM
Subject: Re: (ET) Shock repair
followup
Roll pins,which hold the struts together, are fabricated
from spring steel. Spring steel, by its nature ,is brittle, after repeated
stresses. Thirty years takes its toll. There is no likely abuse that can
cause this failure, but the aforementioned things certainly can.Just fix
them , as they break, and get on with life. [That's why I have eight of
them, already freshened up, ready to go !]
RJ Kanary
Member TRNi Since 1998
ASE® Certified Master
Auto Technician
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 6:06
PM
Subject: Re: (ET) Shock repair
followup
Related question:
This weekend I was
mowing and, at one point, was backing up. I was looking
backwards and
didn't see the back of the mower catch on something which
tilted the
deck up to the point where one shock end broke off at the mower
deck
(from hitting the stop in the bracket). I guess this is the downside
of
the the tilt-up which makes cleaning so easy? Or am I missing
something? I
don't recall reading anyone else have this
happen.
SteveS
E12S
----- Original Message -----
From:
"Christopher Zach" <czach computer org>
To: "Elec-trak"
<elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
Sent:
Monday, May 06, 2002 9:57 AM
Subject: (ET) Shock repair
followup
> Thanks for all the tips on fixing the mower
shocks. It turns out the
problem
> was the pin sheared off. Here
are a few thoughts for replacement:
>
> 1) Go to the hardware
store and get a punch/drift along with the new pin.
It
> costs
$3.00 but the punch makes driving the old pin out to be a
simple
task.
> Little screwdrivers/allen wrenches/etc will not
work and will only waste
> your time.
>
> 2) When
putting the new pin in, I found the best way to compress the shock
>
was to put it back on the E20 and deck, then drive the deck into a
wall
> (really slowly). This compressed the shock, the brake held
the E20, and I
> simply tapped in the new pin with a hammer and
(when it got flush with the
> outside of the shock) the above
mentioned drift. Very gentle taps are all
> that is
needed.
>
> Takes no time at all to
do.
>
>
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