Re: (ET) Shock repair followup

["SteveS" <ssawtelle fcc net>]

Agreed with the roll pin breaking, but mine broke off where the inner sliding part joins the spherical (is that right?) bearing at the mower end. I'm not too surprised at that, but what is a concern is the mower deck tilting up so easily when in reverse.

----- Original Message -----

From: RJ Kanary

To: SteveS ; 

Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 6:41 PM

Subject: Re: (ET) Shock repair followup

Roll pins,which hold the struts together, are fabricated from spring steel. Spring steel, by its nature ,is brittle, after repeated stresses. Thirty years takes its toll. There is no likely abuse that can cause this failure, but the aforementioned things certainly can.Just fix them , as they break, and get on with life. [That's why I have eight of them, already freshened up, ready to go !]

 

 

RJ Kanary
Member TRNi  Since 1998
ASE® Certified Master Auto Technician

 

rjkanary nauticom net
 

----- Original Message -----

From: SteveS

To: elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu

Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 6:06 PM

Subject: Re: (ET) Shock repair followup

Related question:

This weekend I was mowing and, at one point, was backing up. I was looking
backwards and didn't see the back of the mower catch on something which
tilted the deck up to the point where one shock end broke off at the mower
deck (from hitting the stop in the bracket). I guess this is the downside of
the the tilt-up which makes cleaning so easy? Or am I missing something? I
don't recall reading anyone else have this happen.

SteveS
E12S

----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Zach" <czach computer org>
To: "Elec-trak" <elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 9:57 AM
Subject: (ET) Shock repair followup


> Thanks for all the tips on fixing the mower shocks. It turns out the
problem
> was the pin sheared off. Here are a few thoughts for replacement:
>
> 1) Go to the hardware store and get a punch/drift along with the new pin.
It
> costs $3.00 but the punch makes driving the old pin out to be a simple
task.
> Little screwdrivers/allen wrenches/etc will not work and will only waste
> your time.
>
> 2) When putting the new pin in, I found the best way to compress the shock
> was to put it back on the E20 and deck, then drive the deck into a wall
> (really slowly). This compressed the shock, the brake held the E20, and I
> simply tapped in the new pin with a hammer and (when it got flush with the
> outside of the shock) the above mentioned drift. Very gentle taps are all
> that is needed.
>
> Takes no time at all to do.
>
>