[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
RE: RE: (ET) different wiring
- Subject: RE: RE: (ET) different wiring
- From: "Jeff Tickner" <JeffT softlanding com>
- Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 13:19:12 -0500
- Sender: owner-elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
I was thinking that the 12V battery would be charged by tapping the whole
36V pack via the 4A DC-DC converter and adding a 4A charge controller to
regulate the charging. The train of thought also involved converting the
onboard charger into an external charger to free up the room for the 12V
battery. Then when you need big Amps for the lifts you draw down the 12V
battery which is then slowly charged up. BUT the 18V draw of the lift motor
blows that theory. I also tend to only think in terms of my use, I only
have/use the front lift, no tiller.
In any case "ignorance is bliss" I leave it to you more knowledgeable
listees to save me time and effort doing things that won't work.
"Elie, Larry (L.D.)"
<lelie ford com> To: "'Bob
Murcek'" <RMURCEK geisinger edu>,
Sent by: elec-trak cosmos phy
tufts edu
owner-elec-trak cosmos phy cc:
.tufts.edu Subject: RE: RE:
(ET) different wiring
10/31/01 12:47 PM
I use (2) 225 Amp hour batteries, and (4) 210 Amp hour batteries. Not by
choice, by what I happened to get. The 225's go to the lights and are also
2 of the 3 that go to the BACK lift (tiller gets a second lift, 18V, on the
opposite 3 batteries as the front lift). The back lift gets far more use;
tiller is over 250 lbs and gets lifted every row. The snow blower may be
heavier, but it doesn't get picked up as often. The 225's go dead as
quickly as the other 210's. The 225's are also slower to charge, forcing
me to charge an extra 20 to 40 minutes for balance until I made the
equalizer.
As far as Jeff's suggestion on one more battery; sure, with one more
charger. Maybe 2 more batteries; a 12 and a 6, and use 18V for the lift;
but where do you put them? The GE charger is 14Amps AC max; you might have
to plug in the other charger(s) elsewhere as well. I have tripped a 20 amp
breaker with a good 12 V charger (isolated) on 2 batteries and the GE on
all 6.
Larry Elie
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Murcek [mailto:RMURCEK geisinger edu]
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2001 12:18 PM
To: elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
Subject: Re: RE: (ET) different wiring
This'll sound lame, but has anyone tried using differently-sized batteries
to make up for the uneven load? I.e., hugh ones for batts that provide
12V, a medium-sized one for the batt that's needed for 18V, and
regular-sized ones for the rest? This would force the use of separate
chargers, though. Or isn't it worth the effort?..Bob
>>> "Elie, Larry (L.D.)" <lelie ford com> 10/31/2001 12:03:40 PM >>>
No, unless you break the series connection before you make this parallel
connection. If you are willing to add 2 high-current switches to break the
series connection, and another 3 to make your parallel connections. The
switches are expensive. It could be done, but if you failed to break even
one connection, you will blow up a battery. I'm sorry, but this really
isn't all that easy. Bill Gunn suggests just tapping off 12V and charging
a bit longer to make up for the imbalance. I designed a self-equalizer
based on parallel integrators that I might be able to post after it is
published (the patent will not be filed because the company choose a more
expensive charge equalizer). This is an old problem.
Larry Elie
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeremy Gagliardi com [mailto:Jeremy Gagliardi com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2001 11:30 AM
To: Elec-Trak
Subject: (ET) different wiring
Instead of a DC-DC Converter, how about this?...
Hooking up the 12V components to the 3 pairs of batteries in parrallel,
like this:
12V+ to Batt1+ & Batt3+ & Batt5+
12V- to Batt2- & Batt4- & Batt6-
The 18V accessories would look like this:
18V+ to Batt1+ & Batt4+
18V- to Batt3- & Batt6-
Would that work?
--
(============================)
mailto:Jeremy Gagliardi com
http://Jeremy.Gagliardi.com/
(============================)