RE: (ET) Mower motor bearings

["Steven Naugler" <snaugler earthlink net>]

Dennis, Kevin, and others,

 

On why you cur the head of the bolt off.:  You don't have to.  I made this tool based on Bill Gunn's verbal description, and then took it to work and used the press there.  I found that cutting the head off the bolt was not needed, but I preferred it to be cut off.  With the head cut off the bolt, the flange will slide totally off the motor.  With the bolt head still on, the flange stays on the motor until you remove the bolt.  I personnally find it more convenient with the bolt off, so to perpetuate my prejudices, I without thinking tell people to cut the bolt head off.

 

If you want to see what a split bearing puller looks like, go to http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/start.jsp , then search for Grainger stock number 1A807, and you'll get a nice picture.  I find that most small wheel pullers don't fit under the small GE motor bearings, but a split bearing puller will.  (The space between the commutator and the bearing is too thin.)  I use a hydraulic shop press at work, but there are hand pullers that will mount to the split bearing puller as well.  These are all items a motor shop should have.

 

--- Steven Naugler

--- snaugler earthlink net

----- Original Message -----

From: Pestka, Dennis J

To: KevinC927 aol com;elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu;snaugler earthlink net

Sent: 4/2/01 7:41:56 AM

Subject: RE: (ET) Mower motor bearings

Steve;

Not being familiar with the split bearing puller may make this a dumb

question,

why do you have to cut the head off the bolt ?

Thanks

Dennis

 

-----Original Message-----

From: Steven Naugler [mailto:snaugler earthlink net]

Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2001 10:12 AM

To: elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu; KevinC927 aol com

Subject: RE: (ET) Mower motor bearings

 

 

Kevin and others,

You should not need to cut off the motor flange.  Bill Gunn several years

ago gave me the following method of removing stubborn flanges.  (This method

is in the archives.)

You'll need a 3 inch long grade 5 bolt with the same size and thread as the

blade retention bolt, a split bearing puller, and a press.  Your motor shop

should have all of these.  If you use a grade bolt lower than 5, it may bend

during the flange removal.

1.  Soak the flange with some type of penetrating oil, preferably overnight.

(This step helps, but is not absolutely needed.)

2.  Cut off the head of the bolt.

3.  Screw the 3 inch bolt all the way in to the end of the shaft.  It must

be fully engaged or damage to the threads in the shaft could result.

4.  Install the split bearing puller around the shaft just under flange.

5.  Place the motor in the press supported by the split bearing puller.

6.  Press on the end of the bolt.  This is where you will damage the threads

in the motor shaft if the bolt with the cut off head is not fully threaded.

7.  Be prepared to catch the motor.  When the flange comes loose from the

shaft the motor will drop without warning.

If you try this techniques, let us know how it worked.  I used it so far on

6 stubborn motors and it worked every time.

--- Steven Naugler

--- snaugler earthlink net <mailto:snaugler earthlink net>

 

----- Original Message -----

From:  <mailto:KevinC927 aol com>

To: elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu <mailto:KevinC927 aol com>

Sent: 4/1/01 4:34:26 AM

Subject: (ET) Mower motor bearings

 

 

 

Hey guys,

My local motor shop has been incapable of removing the blade mounting flange

 

from the motor shaft so that the bottom bearing can be changed.  He does

industrial motor work, so you'd think that he would be able to pull these

off.  Any suggestions?

 

 

 

 

 

<mailto:snaugler earthlink net>