RE: (ET) Re: ET mower motor removal...it worked!

["Don Barry" <Don Barry kmtc com>]

Dwight's right-on with the stainless steel bolts!

The lubricant (i.e. anti-seize) is **REQUIRED** on stainless! Reason: 
stainless is actually softer than regular steel, hence they tend to 
gall.... and when stainless galls, is seizes **HARD**. Also, your generic 
stainless steel bolt or nut is between SAE grade 2 and 3... so don't use 
them for critical areas (like steering), unless you get the GRADE 8 (also 
known as "aircraft") stainless bolts.

Another great place to use stainless is to replace the 4 carriage bolts 
that hang the main motor onto the deck.. you see the "heads" of these 
bolts around the shifter.... Stainless looks much better, and if you want 
some snazz you can even run them over a buffer for xtra shine!

Don

Don Barry
Infrastructure Manager, IT
Kirby Corporation
E-Mail: don barry kmtc com
Phone: 713-435-1032
Fax: 713-435-1070

>>> "Hazen, Dwight L" <hazen indiana edu> 03/27/01 10:21AM >>>



Steve, 

 I use stainless bolts on all replacement work on my ElecTraks, rust is not
a problem then. On stainless use a lubricant when you bolt them up so that
you do not "gall" the threads on removal. Make sure you put the new bolts 
in
up-side down, heads in the deck and nuts on top. This way grass has less to
get caught on under the deck, the treads do not suffer damage, and the nuts
should be easier to use a socket on but I am not sure about the socket
thing. Try it and see. I had to use open end wrenches, box wrenches and on
one deck a cutting torch to remove those old rusted bolts!

 New fasteners make to very easy to work on your ElecTrak! 


  Dwight 
 
Dwight L. Hazen, Indiana University, UITS 
Bloomington, In. 47408-7378 Phone 812-855-5367 hazen indiana edu 
http://php.ucs.indiana.edu/~hazen/ Ham Radio wb9tlh arrl net