RE: (ET) Re: ET mower motor removal...it worked!

["Elie, Larry (L.D.)" <lelie ford com>]

Title: Re: ET mower motor removal...it worked!

I use stainless hardware; not much more expensive, and strong enough.  Socket-heat

caps-screw, 1/4"-20 and a stainless locking nut (some folks use lock washers) and it

won't shake off and it will still come off.

 

Larry Elie

 

-----Original Message-----
From: frankenfield [mailto:res08b3w verizon net]
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 5:19 AM
To: E-trak
Subject: (ET) Re: ET mower motor removal...it worked!

Hello,

I got the mower-motor off. 
 Again, I'm surprised that the manual doesn't tell you how remove motors, 
to save yourself some grief.  I was doing it on a fairly cold day and 
feeling full of self-pity.  Maybe it's is in the archives somewhere but, 
 having gone through several hundred messages, I gave up on that route. 
 Thanks for the helpful information and encouragement.  
I learned 
a few things along the way.  Perhaps some of this is supposed to be so 
obvious any idiot...well you know the rest.  So, for those of us who have 
to buy the "Idiots guide to boiling water", a suggested 
approach:


1. Assuming that the electricals are disconnected and the 
blade is off the shaft:   The bottom flange, below the mower deck on 
this motor is a split flange: kind of like a lock-washer is split.  Anyway, 
if you spread this flange very slightly at the split with a screw driver {may be 
hidden around at the back of the motor and/or covered with crud} the flange 
separates from the motor housing more easily.
Rust no longer binds it up so 
much and then you can start to rotate it/work it down and off the bottom of the 
motor housing.

2.  The upper flange, above the mower housing, is 
spot welded to the motor housing.  Prying on it will only bend it if the 
bottom flange is rusted in place or otherwise resistant to movement. 
 So,...

3.  Ignore the upper flange till the lower one is off. 
 The bottom one can be replaced or carefully bent back into proper shape. 
 But if you bend it up I'd clean up the mating surfaces and apply some 
sealant to keep junk out.  What do you think?  Will sealant only make 
it harder the next time around?
__________

By the way, I'm thinking of 
replacing the four 1/4"[?] standard bolts that clamp the motors on the deck, 
with someting that takes an allen-wrench or otherwise allows you to avoid trying 
to remove these "soft" nuts/bolts with end wrenches/crescent wrenches etc. 
 I couldn't get a socket on these fasteners because they were set too close 
to the body of the motor and I did a fair job of buggering up the paint with the 
wrenches.  The person who last removed this motor had fought the same fight 
and left a gouge in the paint that has pretty well rusted through by now. 
 An unnecessary pain in the neck,  it seems to me.  Has anyone 
else replaced these fasteners; and with what?

Thanks 
"trakkies",


Steven 
Frankenfield