Re: (ET) E-15 Saga, Day two..

["Don Barry" <Don Barry kmtc com>]

Hello Tom,

I'm still waiting to hear back on the paint match.. they sent it off for 
matching for automotive paint. But.. Bill Gunn has the paint, in enamel 
quart cans. Reasonable price, too! 

I used Rustoleum "Metal Saver" rust remover .. nothing fancy! Wash off 
with water, and then QUICKLY wash off with lacquer thinner. Then I fire up 
the propane torch and apply the tinning butter pronto. Work in small 
spots.. a little success each time. I generally never work on any area 
larger than a dollar bill at a time.

Funny you should ask about pics.. I just bought a digital camera this 
evening! I also got some cable labels so I can remember better where 
things go back.. one of the next  tasks is to pull the steering column and 
the center console.

On the underside of the frame I'll fix any rust and chips, paint, and also 
apply what's know as "chip guard" paint... basically the very thick clear 
paint. Avoid future dings and scratches.

Yes, IMRON is nasty stuff to breathe, even get on yourself. I use a paint 
respirator and lots of ventilation.

Funny enough, I called Bill Gunn today to order some parts...First time I 
ever talked to the guy.. He was great to me, and his prices are cool..He 
has reproduction metal pieces for about everything but the frame! I got 
the entire rear box (sans the fenders) for about $100..The front side 
panels are about $20 each.. He also has reproductions of all the decals! 
So I got the ones for the floorpan around the shifter, the parking brake, 
etc. They were about $4 each. Can't beat that... damn belts were only $12 
or something like that.... Oh yes, the metal parts come primered, too. 

He still takes checks, but I went to the bank and got him a cashier's 
check and fedex'd it to him. I almost felt guilty!!

Bill also spilled the importance on ANY rebuild job of taking the electric 
motors to a shop and having the bearings replaced. Doesn't matter if they 
look good or not... cheap parts to avoid ruining an expensive motor. Good 
advice. Also that the fill plug on the transmission doesn't fill up the 
tranny all the way. You need to tilt the tractor at a steep angle (or just 
pull the damn thing off) to fill it up. Holds something like 64 ounces, 
and many trannys get toasted from too little oil.

Copped a service manual too, entire bill for all my goodies was around 
$270.00

Got to run, I doing taxes tonight (no ET fun..)

Don

>>> Tom G <wavetech superlink com> 01/31/01 07:49PM >>>
Don,

what info did you get on the paint?

what brand/kind of rust remover do you use?

would you have any pictures of your progress.I would love to see them.

since you have delt with restoring cars I'm sure you know the dangers of 
spraying IMRON so just a note be safe. Sounds great if you can get some
mixed up.


tom

At 08:24 PM 1/29/2001 -0600, you wrote:
>Thanks to all for tips on the paint!
>
>Tonight I started attacking the problem areas. I removed the hood and seat
covers. Vaccummed out, and then washed down both front and reat battery
wells to remove accumulated crud.  There was a but of rust damage to the
front, so the drilled out the rivets, etc, and pulled the front and side
panel off of the front end. Pulled the charger unit out as well.
>
>To attack the rust areas, I used a technique I learned on antique cars.
Since the rust area are small (some quarter sized, some larger), I made a
"dam" around the rusted areas with parafin wax. Then I started cleaning out
the rust with rust remover and a acid-proof brush. The rust-remover doesn't
eat up the wax, and the wax keeps the acid remover from traveling around. I
didn't want to use a wire brush because it removes too much metal along
with the rust.
>
>When I got the areas de-rusted, I tinned them with what is called "Tinning
Butter". Just brush on and heat the metal. This flux is made of premium 50%
tin powder that bonds to the metal when heated with an ordinary propane
torch. Leaves a good base for additional body solder.  You can get yours at
a good auto body supply shop, or on the WWW at www.eastwoodco.com. TIN
DOESN'T RUST.. so the rust is forever stopped. 
>
>Later I'll fill them up with some 70/30 (% lead/tin) auto body solder.
Once you get the hang of this technique, it's just as fast as using Bondo,
and unlike Bondo, IT NEVER FALLS OFF...
>
>I'm going to see if I can get a local shop to produce the Pantone color
number for the ET Yellow... I'd like to use DuPont's IMRON paint, as it's
acid-proof. It's the same paint you see on racing cars, as it's impervious
to methyl alcohol. I think it might acid-proof the frames.
>
>Later,
>
>Don
>
>
>
>Don Barry
>Infrastructure Manager, IT
>Kirby Corporation
>E-Mail: don barry kmtc com 
>Phone: 713-435-1032
>Fax: 713-435-1070
>Fax:  713-435-1070
>
>
>