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RE: (ET) info/help needed
- Subject: RE: (ET) info/help needed
- From: Larry Elie <lelie ford com>
- Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 12:39:04 -0400
- Sender: owner-elec-trak cosmos5 phy tufts edu
I just got back from vacation, so this may have been already answered.
David's suggestions to Anthony are good, but here is a real simple one I
have
had happen. The fuse holder on the lift fuse rusted. Rust doesn't
conduct
current very well, but you still may get significant voltage for a meter
down
stream of the fuse-- until you try to draw current by running the lift, at
which
point the voltage drops to zero. Sand the curved part of the holder, and
re-insert
the fuse. It worked for me. Replacing the fuse holder will work longer
term.
Larry Elie
----------
From: Anthony Bailey[SMTP:a636ccr semovm semo edu]
Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 1999 9:23 AM
To: David Roden (Akron, Ohio, USA)
Cc: Elec-Trak
Subject: Re: (ET) info/help needed
>> But I also noticed my electric front lift motor was
>> unplugged and also the wires going to it had faulty connectors. I
>> replaced
>> the connectors but still the lift motor won't work, I've got the 18
>> volts
>> going to it from the lift switch. I could just replace the lift motor, I
>> guess. Any ideas?
>
>If by "faulty" you mean they show signs of excessive heat, maybe the lift
>motor drew too much current and was disconnected.
Well, the connectors would no longer slide onto the tabs as the open
sides of them were broken off.
>Use an ohmmeter to measure resistance across the lift motor (I don't
>remember which terminals are which -- there is a common, and up, and a
>down; measure from common to up and common to down). You should read a
>good fraction of an ohm or so, maybe half an ohm (guessing). If it's
>zero ohms or nearly so, could be a shorted armature. If it's infinite or
>very high, the motor is burned out (or brushes are bad). You might also
>take the lift assembly out, dismantle it, and see if the motor runs when
>connected to a 12v battery. Grease the gears lightly before you
>reassemble it.
I don't know why I didn't think of checking the resistance of the
motor. I tried to take the lift assembly out but no luck yet,
evidently I'm still missing taking out a mounting bolt. I'll check
this tonight.
>
>Someone said the lift motor can be replaced with an early Chevrolet
>Corvette power window motor. Probably other stout power window motors
>from GM products would work. Take the motor to a parts store or to the
>junkyard for a matchup.
>
>I know naught of the Wheel Horse models, so your best bet with the
>reverse problem is to follow the troubleshooting procedures in the manual
>(if you have it) -- otherwise just good common sense voltage and
>continuity checks through the circuit. If your WH is like the early ET
>large frame models, and has a wound field motor, reverse is done by
>reversing the field, not the armature polarity. If it's a PM motor, the
>armature polarity would have to be reversed.
I've got the owners & parts manuals but they don't have any useful
troubleshooting info other than the schematics and locations of parts
which has been very helpful.
>Another wild guess: If you have heat on the mower motor cable, maybe the
>bad insulation is allowing the wires to touch and short-circuit from time
>to time. That would certainly use lots of power, but I'd expect them to
>eventually be touching long enough to burn out. Or is the frayed section
>just at the terminal lug?
Yep, the frayed section is at the terminal lug.
>Make sure your brake is releasing. If it drags, it can eat up energy
>quickly.
Pretty sure the brake is releasing, in fact it needs to be adjusted
to grab a little more as it just gradually slows the tractor down
instead of quickly stopping as I'm going down a hill.
>If you have glazed belts I'd expect them to slip in D2 before they'd slip
>in LL, if the load on the tractor were the same.
They do slip in D2 also, in fact they work okay in D1 and L but in D2
& LL they slip quite a bit if you go more than the slowest speed in
that gear.
>
>Hope some of my random rambling helps. Good luck!
It has, all random rambling much appreciated.
Thanks, Tony
>
>
>David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
>1991 Solectria Force 144vac
>1979 General Engines ElectroPed 24vdc
>1974 Honda Civic 96vdc
>1970 GE Elec-trak 36 vdc
----
this is coming to you from an Apple Power Macintosh G3/300 running MacOS
8.6
Anthony Bailey (mailto:a636ccr semovm semo edu) Apple Computer
Technician for Southeast Missouri State University, Cape Girardeau,
MO 63701