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Re: (ET) info/help needed



But I also noticed my electric front lift motor was
unplugged and also the wires going to it had faulty connectors. I replaced
the connectors but still the lift motor won't work, I've got the 18 volts
going to it from the lift switch. I could just replace the lift motor, I
guess. Any ideas?

If by "faulty" you mean they show signs of excessive heat, maybe the lift
motor drew too much current and was disconnected.

Well, the connectors would no longer slide onto the tabs as the open sides of them were broken off.

Use an ohmmeter to measure resistance across the lift motor (I don't
remember which terminals are which -- there is a common, and up, and a
down; measure from common to up and common to down).  You should read a
good fraction of an ohm or so, maybe half an ohm (guessing).  If it's
zero ohms or nearly so, could be a shorted armature.  If it's infinite or
very high, the motor is burned out (or brushes are bad).  You might also
take the lift assembly out, dismantle it, and see if the motor runs when
connected to a 12v battery.  Grease the gears lightly before you
reassemble it.

I don't know why I didn't think of checking the resistance of the motor. I tried to take the lift assembly out but no luck yet, evidently I'm still missing taking out a mounting bolt. I'll check this tonight.

Someone said the lift motor can be replaced with an early Chevrolet
Corvette power window motor.  Probably other stout power window motors
from GM products would work.  Take the motor to a parts store or to the
junkyard for a matchup.

I know naught of the Wheel Horse models, so your best bet with the
reverse problem is to follow the troubleshooting procedures in the manual
(if you have it) -- otherwise just good common sense voltage and
continuity checks through the circuit.  If your WH is like the early ET
large frame models, and has a wound field motor, reverse is done by
reversing the field, not the armature polarity.  If it's a PM motor, the
armature polarity would have to be reversed.

I've got the owners & parts manuals but they don't have any useful troubleshooting info other than the schematics and locations of parts which has been very helpful.

Another wild guess:  If you have heat on the mower motor cable, maybe the
bad insulation is allowing the wires to touch and short-circuit from time
to time.  That would certainly use lots of power, but I'd expect them to
eventually be touching long enough to burn out.  Or is the frayed section
just at the terminal lug?

Yep, the frayed section is at the terminal lug.

Make sure your brake is releasing.  If it drags, it can eat up energy
quickly.

Pretty sure the brake is releasing, in fact it needs to be adjusted to grab a little more as it just gradually slows the tractor down instead of quickly stopping as I'm going down a hill.

If you have glazed belts I'd expect them to slip in D2 before they'd slip
in LL, if the load on the tractor were the same.

They do slip in D2 also, in fact they work okay in D1 and L but in D2 & LL they slip quite a bit if you go more than the slowest speed in that gear.

Hope some of my random rambling helps.  Good luck!

It has, all random rambling much appreciated.
Thanks, Tony


David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
1991 Solectria Force 144vac
1979 General Engines ElectroPed 24vdc
1974 Honda Civic 96vdc
1970 GE Elec-trak 36 vdc

----
this is coming to you from an Apple Power Macintosh G3/300 running MacOS 
8.6
Anthony Bailey (mailto:a636ccr semovm semo edu) Apple Computer Technician for Southeast Missouri State University, Cape Girardeau, MO 63701