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Re: (ET) Introduction from Michigan
I'm not an expert, but I'll try to answer some of your questions.
Corrections from others welcome.
David is a total expert. :-)
You'll have to connect the front lift to 24 volts instead of 18. It worked
fine for me.
Yep, not a problem in real life. I have mine at 36 volts and it runs
fine. Just put a 20a fuse to keep it from blowing up if the lift jams.
Or the battery, or the charger. I suggest that you verifiy it with a
known-
accurate multimeter.
If it turns out to be off you can adjust it by taking off the plastic
and moving the screw a bit.
The brake was frozen and now that I have it sort of moving I have no
spring action to pull it back and I suspect the pads are worn.
Brake pedal does that. Best move is to tap out the shear pin holding the
pedal to the shaft, removing the brake switch so you don't bend it, then
tapping out the shaft. Clean the shaft off, wire brush out the pedal
shaft hole, put some good lube on there, and re-assemble it. Over the
centuries the shaft gets loose so a good washer on the outside between
tractor and pedal really makes it a lot more smooth and steady.
Then tap in a new pin and go.
Some people here like the original controllers because they can work on
them. I got fed up with mine, and replaced it with a modern solid state
controller.
I like the original controller, it's simple, pretty reliable, and if
yours uses the centrifigual switch on the motor dead simple. Most times
I like to maintain a constant speed while mowing and the shunt motor
does a great job of maintaining speed.
The electrical controllers on an E15 are really kind of junky, I can see
people ditching that for a curtis.
Installing a generic golf car controller requires some engineering. A
background in electronics and electricity helps with this. Maybe someone
here has, or knows of, a cookbook approach
The advantage for the E12 is that the motor doesn't have field
weakening, so it's about as simple as you can get.
I assume you're using the correct weight of gear lube.
85/95 gear oil if I recall works well.
The belt driving the transmission is most likely original and it slips
upon starting in both high gears
That happens, lots of torque in the motor. You can loosen the motor
bolts to the tractor and raise the tension, but I'd rather slip the belt
that stress the transmission bearings.
At least one person here is a big POR15 fan. I used catalyzed acrylic
enamel for a mower deck underside. Can you still get that stuff? The
vapors are poison so you have to work outdoors with a mask.
POR15 works pretty well (I'm a fan) and it's also slick so snow doesn't
stick to the blower and grass doesn't stick to the tractor.
Welcome to the list! You'll love it :-)