Re: (ET) Brake pin, this one is worse....

[John Jeno <jjjeno hotmail com>]

Thanks for the idea.  Adding a zerk during my rebuild.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 4, 2023, at 1:35 PM, Chris Zach via Elec-trak <elec-trak cosmos 
> phy tufts edu> wrote:
>
> Well, driving the tractor around is fun, but I didn't think and drove 
> it to the top of my driveway. Then realized that if I drove it back down 
> and it popped out of gear I was going to have to dive off it and crash 
> it into my log pile again. Been there, did that with the E20 (turned the 
> mower deck into a cruller) and not doing it again.
>
> So I drove it down the grass hill where I could steer into a field and 
> stop it, no problems going down. Still it made me realize I need to fix 
> the brake pedal.
>
> Got the 1/8 punch out and went to work on the shear pin. I found the 
> best way is to get the pedal down enough to get the punch on the pin, 
> tap it down till it hits the footboard, then break it off and tap again. 
> Takes about 3 times, but pin is out. Then the 5/16 punch plus the 5 
> pound maul to bash away at the pin till I can get the pedal off, then 
> smash it level with the 10 pound (small) sledgehammer. Still it will not 
> go any further even after cutting off the end, so I'm stuck.
>
> Drill time. Small pilot hole turned out to be off center, but the good 
> part is 1/2 inch in is the hole in the shaft for the shear pin so you 
> can get that far. Then larger and larger bits, currently up to 1/4 inch. 
> Still does not budge so I'm going to keep going up till I get to the 
> edge of the shaft, then drill a second hole offset and eventually get 
> this thing out.
>
> What a pain in the rear. I wish they had put a grease zerk or something 
> there because that pin is welded/rusted/galled/swollen in there tightly. 
> Hopefully Harold has a spare.
>
> C
>
>
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