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Re: (ET) Bearing job, magnet reglue, I hate hubs



Ok, figured out the hub secret. As people here have said, 5/16 inch hex head stainless steel bolt, make absolutely sure you clear the hole of debris, then screw in the bolt, then pull it out, then spray penetrating oil, then put the bolt in again and turn it till it is truly bottomed out (this can take a few cleaning cycles) *then* mark the location of the woodruff key, then put on the remover with a space where the key is, then crank it down, whack with a hammer, etc till it comes off.

Finally with it off you can remove the outside and inside seals, take off the motor end housing with a 3 point puller, then look at the bearing itself.

Removing it is also not easy: It's *right* next to the motor windings, so if you put your puller on the shaft all the way it will turn while you're cranking and slice through several motor windings. Did this on a junk motor (windings were already bad) so I need to think about some sort of a shield to protect the windings. Very close design.

Bearing off, tap new one on. I did it on a second mower motor, would test it except that the two fat mower motor housings I have have one magnet loose each. Of course I have a magic magnet shim system, but it's currently being used by the big motor shell and it takes 24 hours to fully cure this JB Weld stuff.

So we're done till next weekend. Maybe I could get my 3 jaw puller on the motor front bearing, but it's just as likely it will shatter like the one on the long motor (which has a fan impeller between the bearing and the windings so they are safe).

On to another thought: In the manuals I can see the E8 main motor has a shorter armature winding section than the E10 motor: Is an E8 main motor really nothing more than a deck motor in terms of power (maybe it's a long case, but it only has one set of magnets and a short armature).

On 8/4/2019 2:33 PM, Chris Zach wrote:
Ok, so I went out and spent $50 bucks at harbor freight for a bearing puller. Nice enough set, use the big puller for these bearings and not the small one.

First I practiced on an old motor shaft. Rear bearing is simple to remove, tapping on the new one with a socket just a bit smaller than the inside race got it on with no problems.

I could not remove the blade hub from the bottom: Putting bolts in the hole all the way simply results in the bolts collapsing with the puller. Heat didn't help, so I gave up for now. Maybe I need a tungsten rod or something like that but the forces here are simply insane.

Next up was the real motor shaft. Back bearing came off pretty easily but the front one was another matter. First the bearing exploded: It broke apart and the outer race cracked. So much for that. Getting the inner ring off took heat, pressure, and whacking away at the puller with a hammer but finally it started to move and came off. I cleaned up the shaft, used the old inner race as my spacer with some 3/4 washers and a 21mm socket to tap on the new bearing (once again only pressure was on the inner race) and I think I drove it on a tiny bit too far. Will see what that does to the motor alignment.

Next job was to fix the magnet. Before I started gluing I noticed that it was impossible to really hold the magnet in place because it pushed away from the other magnet in line with it, and it always wanted to smack into the magnet on the other side. So after a moment of though I got some 1/2 playwood, and started making jigs.

First I cut a strip a bit wider than the normal separation amount of the magnets. Then I used the grinder to make a perfect snug fit so the wood would just go down the side. Then I did the other side, now I have a set of guides for the new magnet.

But even that is not enough as the magnet pushes away from its neighbor. So I made a second spacer that went across the inside diameter of the motor magnets. Just barely fits. Now I'm ready: I cured up some JB weld, covered a good bit of the magnet face and the inside metal face, put in my two side jigs, put in the magnet (I marked it, also it's easy to see the side that butted the other magnet as it's pretty clean), then drove in the center spacer, made sure everything was as aligned as I could, and am leaving it for a couple of hours to cure.

Hopefully this works. If so I'll assemble it and give it a try on a small 12 supply. Should spin right up.

Next I am going to need some sort of end seal, as I didn't see one on this motor, and something's got to keep junk from getting in there. I am using sealed bearings this time as opposed to the stock open ones with metal shields, we'll see what happens.

Any other ideas on getting these hubs off, or should I just cut them lengthwise with my cutting wheel?

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