| Hi, I know that you want to keep it original but you may want to consider this for a true work light. It throws out light like you can’t believe. It will run on 9 - 60 volts. I mounted one to the top of my snowblower cab of my winter tractor. It worked so well that I bought another and made a magnetic mount to just stick to the hood of my other tractors. Its wired it for the accessory plug so I could move it easily from machine to machine.
I can take some photos if you want to see the area that this lamp illuminates.
Dean
I used this bulb and it fits , 36v, 40 w , isolated base https://www.amazon.com/CE17-MINIATURE-INCADESCENT-BULB-BA15D/dp/B0046IP1BUSent from my iPad On your headlight issue, I thought I remember someone finding a 36v bulb. Anyone out there have the info on this ?DennisSent from my iPhoneOn Nov 4, 2018, at 11:16 AM, "Chris Zach" <cz alembic crystel com> wrote:
Ok, the E20 is happy. The sticking contactor theory for speed 3 was an illusion (it doesn't make a lot of difference in neutral but you can hear it when driving around) and the loss of speeds 2-4 in reverse was because my bypass connector around wire 24 at card 4 was not plugged in right. Fixing that gives me the right speeds in forward and reverse.
Still need to fix other things including:
New belts: I threw a belt awhile ago and have been running on one for a few years. Bad idea, it's going to break in 2 feet of snow so I have a new set on order.
Cruise control light and switch don't work: I checked all the wires, the problem is in the switch. New switch on order, finally I will be able to see I am in speed 4 (about time).
Seat switch smashed: These seem to disintegrate every 5 years, oh well replacing with yet another plastic one. I think I liked the older style better.
Headlights out. Not sure why, really need a 36-12v DC-DC to remove that tap.
Lift belt: Stitching broke a year or two ago, so another new one on order. Old one still works with a bolt and washer making the loop, but it looks sad and will break eventually with the snowblower.
Ammeter: Mine is a wreck; it just pegs and is so rusted I can't read it anyway. Time for a new one.
Snowblower: Need to lubricate the chain, check to see if the main drive bearings are any good, finally replace the side shoes (I'm waiting as long as possible for that since there are a finite number of replacements), and re POR-15 the throat. It's taken 15-20 years, but the POR15 is worn away in some places, and that stuff really keeps snow from sticking to the throat.
Battery side panels: Front ones are rusty, and it's really time to replace them. Not getting worse due to the NiCDs, but still an annoyance.
Just stuff to do to keep a 40+ year old tractor running strong. I will have to replace the batteries in another 40 years, so I guess I'll build repairs to last that long and no longer. :-)
C
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