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Charlie, If you keep your mowing to only when the grass is dry, you can get away with the cage bearings. The sealed bearings last quite a bit longer though, in my experience. I don't think the added drag will save you much energy when mowing tall grass, because these motors try to run the same rpm, no matter the load. Sounds like your mowing load is way higher than the bearing drag. Also, I've had trouble with those brush holders, too. I drill a 1/4" hole on the top under the breaker, then clamp it up in a vise, and tap the armature out with a punch. You can squirt in some penetrating lubricant before tapping, if needed. Chad ------ Original message------ From: Charlie Date: Mon, Oct 10, 2016 4:20 PM To: Elec-Trak; Cc: Subject:(ET) mower motor questions I'm rebuilding a set of 3 tall skinny motors for a friend, and one of the short fat ones for mys
elf. I've been reading all the instructions and whatnot in the list archives and it's all been very helpful. I have the "top hats" removed, and the armatures out. I plan to order brushes and new gaskets from Harold.The stupid little skinny screws that held the caps on the tall (3.5" dia) motors have sheared off in their holes. I'm thinking I will not bother drilling and tapping them back out, instead I will replace the motor through-bolts with stainless all-thread and extend them up into the caps, in the same way that the fat (4.5" dia) motor caps are held on. Has anyone else done this? Everyone's recommending double rubber sealed bearings (2RS type) but those don't turn as freely as the original metal shielded bearings. Since I need all the "umph" I can get to mow my thick sedges and crabgrass, I hate the idea of using power-stealing bearings. Has anyone tri
ed using bearings with rubber seals on only one side, and metal shields on the other (type RSZ)? I have two motors where the commutator end bearing is pretty securely stuck in the brush holder assembly. Any tips on how to get them out? Thanks! --Charlie |