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Re: (ET) mower motor questions



Understood, Jeff.   But the bearings only need to be water and grease-tight on the bottom, not on the top - on the top they only need shielding from loose particulates.  So if I can get RSZ bearings, I can put the rubber seal on the bottom (which in the case of the fat motors gives me three layers of rubber shield) and the shielded side up.  So I'd get the benefits of the rubber seal and only half the drawback.

I'm thinking about using a piece of heavy PVC drainpipe to get pull the brush assembly off the tall skinny motors...


--Charlie

On Mon, Oct 10, 2016 at 4:26 PM, jlantonucci comcast net <jlantonucci comcast net> wrote:

Bearing corrosion is by far the number one failure mode of these motors - just saying...


------ Original message------

From: Charlie

Date: Mon, Oct 10, 2016 4:19 PM

To: Elec-Trak;

Subject:(ET) mower motor questions


I'm rebuilding a set of 3 tall skinny motors for a friend, and one of the short fat ones for myself.  I've been reading all the instructions and whatnot in the list archives and it's all been very helpful.

I have the "top hats" removed, and the armatures out.  I plan to order brushes and new gaskets from Harold.

The stupid little skinny screws that held the caps on the tall (3.5" dia) motors have sheared off in their holes.   I'm thinking I will not bother drilling and tapping them back out, instead I will replace the motor through-bolts with stainless all-thread and extend them up into the caps, in the same way that the fat (4.5" dia) motor caps are held on.  Has anyone else done this?

Everyone's recommending double rubber sealed bearings (2RS type) but those don't turn as freely as the original metal shielded bearings.  Since I need all the "umph" I can get to mow my thick sedges and crabgrass, I hate the idea of using power-stealing bearings.   Has anyone tried using bearings with rubber seals on only one side, and metal shields on the other (type RSZ)?

I have two motors where the commutator end bearing is pretty securely stuck in the brush holder assembly.  Any tips on how to get them out?

Thanks!
--Charlie