One design of hub is fabricated from two pieces, then furnace brazed together. Using a puller on the flange will remove the flange ONLY. :(
The other design seems to be machined from a solid piece of material.Using a puller on the flange will remove the flange in PIECES. :(
The
first type can be
straightened, re-assembled then staked, and will last a lifetime without being
re-brazed, whereas the second type is now a paperweight. Yes, experience
speaking, here. <G>
ANY force to remove either type must be applied to the collar, period. A bearing splitter used on an arbor press is the best thing I have seen to achieve separation without damage.
A stout piece of
material that fits
into the bolt hole but not screwed into the
threads will be needed to apply force to the armature shaft. Using a bolt to do so could risk damage
to the threads. The armature shaft
is very soft.
Heating
the collar may well be needed, but
must be precisely directed,and
performed with great
care.
Safety equipment is a MUST.
After disassembly, thorough
corrosion removal on
all the parts, followed by
anti-seize
application will save you or
the next guy a ton of grief.
<VBG>
RJ
I decided to start rebuilding another one of my deck motors - and it didn't go so well. With the first one I did, I didn't have a split bearing puller, so I made my own version from some old composite decking to use when pulling the blade hub off (I cut out a donut and cut that in half, and screwed it together to hold it onto the blade hub). It worked nicely.
For some reason, I decided to buy an actual split bearing puller - shouldn't have done that. It doesn't seem to spread the force out all the way around the blade hub flange as well as my composite donut puller does - and the result was that the flange bent and even cracked. D'oh.
So, how can I go about getting this flange off now that the flange is compromised? I could try using my composite donut, but since part of the flange is already bent and broken away, I'm not sure how well it will work (I'll try it anyway). Assuming that doesn't work - can I pry it down from above without damaging anything? (maybe put two long screwdrivers going opposite directions up above the blade hub, and use them as levers to try to pry it downward)
Any other thoughts?
And hopefully somebody sells used blade hubs....
Thanks,
Mike
Michael S. Briggs, PhDUNH Physics Department(603) 862-2828
_______________________________________________ Elec-trak mailing list Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu https://cosmos.phy.tufts.edu/mailman/listinfo/elec-trak
| Virus-free. www.avast.com |