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Sorry, I was tired and unclear.
So it 'seems' when I screw the relay down, that it will move normally in forward, but in reverse the relay will click but all I get is some current draw and no movement. It may work normally for a few minutes after screwing it together, then not work. remove the screw and it is fine. I had preventatively bought a new relay, and so changed out the original, same issue
As far as connections, this machine is appears to have run a few hours at most, then was stored inside warm and dry for 44 years. I replaced all the caps and as soon as I started touching the edge card terminals, literally touched them, and the terminals would break. I replaced all the terminals with 1/4 quick disconnects and modified a proper edge card connector, so i am very confidant of the edge card connectors. I feel like the molex connectors are probably good but I will keep that in mind.
Drove it all around the parking lot this morning, everything works perfectly[relay unscrewed]. Never drove a machine with a fully functional card one, no jump outs it runs pretty slick. Scoots along with the field weakening pretty quick, almost wondering if the top speed is actually open as it is a big jump, but the control lever is a little stiff so fine positioning is a little tricky
On 2015-05-06 14:16, Nick Skinner wrote:
Could you elaborate a little on what you mean by flaky? Stops working at all, only works in forward, blows fuses, etc....
AFAIK, the relay coil and contacts are isolated from each other and the chassis. I'm not convinced a chassis fault is the issue since two relays behave the same way. Are all the electrical terminals on the relay and control card in good shape? How about the molex plugs on the wiring harness?
I had a tractor I worked on that had marginal terminals in the molex connector that connected the components on the "firewall" drop panel to the harness. Every time I would undo the screws and lower the panel everything was OK. When I screwed it back in place, it would tweak the connector and the reverse relay would stop working. I eventually tracked it to the harness and after much poking and prodding found the issue. You can sometimes use a jeweler's screw driver to close the female pins up a little to get a better contact, if that's your issue. I think I ended up just replacing the pins on that particular tractor. Radio Shack sells (or used to sell) a pin ejector tool that will help you get the pins out without damaging the plastic housing. They also sell (or used to) the correct crimper for those terminals.
Nick
From: stupidemail5 lycos com [mailto:stupidemail5 lycos com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2015 6:54 AM
To: Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
Subject: (ET) She runs...but
So the ebay throwback machine runs. Cleaned the fuse contacts and lift and lights work, runs forward and reverse, mostly.
If I screw the fwd/rev relay to the panel, it gets flaky. I changed it out to a new one, same thing. I will have to check to see if there is an issue with voltage in the frame or something.
Ideas?
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