Nick, I have been play around with that same problem for years and here are all the things I have done so far: · Drilled very small holes on the main board and Soldered the wires on so I had both mechanical and solder joints, (check that each was connected to the correct terminal, in case a prior one was switched) · Changed out all of the micro switches in the throttle including the forward/reverse switch · Put new brushes in the motor and checked the connections that goes up to the wafer on the resister card no.3. · Replaced the Resister card #3. Mine had been cracked by the brace in the from hood cross bar while the compartment was still open before I got it · And put in a virtually new forward and reverse relay After all of these step, and a few others, I have come to the realization of the following, rated in order of importance, helped the most: 1. Micro switches were a good idea since a number of them had the tips worn down about a 1 to 1.5mm, just enough to cause the front large resisters to stay on while use the machine, plus I’m sure there were other complications from time to time 2. New motor brushes since I think they may have the originals from about 1968-1970 3. New pulley belt from the motor to the transmission. That stopped the slippage 4. Rebuilt main cutoff switch on the side to ensure go constant contact These three really helped performance and parts cost the least, BUT: A. After 2 mowing the “Click” is back. That batteries are still 80 charged, so it wasn’t low power B. I opened both sides of the panel, lower back and upper from, move some wires around and put the smaller front panel back on and could get it to go only briefly C. found that if I removed the hood completely I could leave the top panel open, I had no problem, other than mowing my yard with a chop- shop looking mower D. Finally resolved that it is either micro crack or other connection in the main board that can’t take the pressure from the wires connected to it when closed, or the same in one of the connecting white plugs that allow the wire and board to be removed all at once E. Lastly, you and I may also have models that have too small/under powered a motor that strains the when it hits medium hills and has to be shift from “D” to “L” (still researching the motor size and transmission lubricant) There is probably more to tell, like why 20 years ago I put a small additional fuse between two line coming off the mail circuit board. Just remember two things: We are lucky that GE over-engineered the units, since no other consumer mower would have lasted ¼ of the time these units have. PLUS, We enjoy the comparatively quiet, fumeless ride we get (along with the occasional strange stare) when we (in my case my wife) harvest the weekly crop of green we call grass. Please let me know if you have any questions. I’m always up for comparing notes. These machines do get a bit cranky after 40 + years. PS please forgive the typos, didn’t get a chance to proof. PSS any one have a lead on a new main curiut board for an E15, (sorry, I still have to remember to check for the serial no.)? Thanks, Hank Ralston Agency, Inc. *Email: Hank RalstonAgency com ( (585) 697-0880 -----Original Message----- Make sure the battery terminals aren't interfering with your seat switch operation. I had a friend's E15 show very similar symptoms where it seemed like the seat switch was just on the edge of intermittent contact because the new battery threaded posts were just a little too tall. These were Crown batteries in his tractor. I'm assuming that you cleaned the terminals well and that the batteries were charged when you got them. Nick -----Original Message----- From: Michael S Briggs [mailto:msbriggs unh edu] Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2014 2:15 PM To: elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu Subject: (ET) tractor no worky I just replaced my batteries in my E15, since I was down to about 15-20 minutes of mowing time. With the new batteries, I pushed the speed lever forward, and just got a bunch of clicking. I checked the forward/reverse relay, and it looks like it's blown - so I replaced it with another (I have lots of those onhand). Now, when I move the speed switch to the left to put it in reverse, the new relay just makes a constant clicking - as if it's rapidly switching back and forth or something. When I try to get the tractor to move (forward or reverse), I still just get that clicking, and no motion. Any ideas? On a related note - is the Alltrax the only option for upgrading to a PWM controller? Thanks, Mike -- -------------------------------------------------------------- Michael S. Briggs, PhD UNH Physics Department (603) 862-2828 --------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Elec-trak mailing list Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu https://cosmos.phy.tufts.edu/mailman/listinfo/elec-trak |