Re: (ET) E20EA troubles - and here comes the snow!

["Clean Power Supply" <cleanpower att net>]

 Max,
 Wish I was at your house, I'd like to get that E20 going for you.
 Just to clarify, CB-3 is IN the motor, it's leads are in the 4-pin plug 
coming out of the motor. The big breaker ON the outside of the motor is 
CB-1 and if you disconnect it's leads your fuel level gauge will show 
empty.
 The following tests must be made with the master switch ON, key switch 
ON, Brake OFF, operator ON seat, transmission OUT of gear:
 Connect long test lead to bottom left terminal of bottom right contactor. 
 This terminal should have wires with numbers 4, 4-02 and 4-04. Leave this 
end in place while making the following tests. Connect other end of test 
lead to RTN relay coil with wire # 29 and 29-01. Does the relay pull in?
 If so, move that test lead to the brake switch terminal that has only one 
wire on it. If the relay still pulls in, move it to the other brake switch 
terminal. If the relay still pulls in, move the test lead to the seat 
switch (or the splice where its been bypassed). If the relay still pulls 
in on both seat switch terminals move the test lead to Fuse 3, the 
terminal with wires 13-01 and 13-02, if it still pulls in move to Fuse 4 
the terminal with wires 4-01 and 4-03. If it still pulls in, move test 
lead to CB-2 on the upper control panel to th terminal with wires 4-01 and 
4-02.
 Let me know the results, I will be curious to find out.
 Sincerely,
 Harold Z.
On February 9, 2013 at 12:48pm -0500, you wrote:
>2' easily here, west of Boston.
>
>Curiouser and curiouser: Bypassing the big circuit breaker on the motor,
>CB-3 on the E20EA, changed... nothing.
>
>HOWEVER... (as Buckminster Fuller used to say, "you can't know *less* 
>after
>you do an experiment!") I observed unexplainable (so far, by me) behavior:
>The VOLTMETER cut out when I disconnected wires from CB-3. According to 
>the
>schem, the path to ground for the VM has nothing to do with CB3! I'm sure
>it is thoroughly relevant... somehow! (The fact that it worked when I
>parked it seems crazier than ever.)
>
>I wish I didn't have to debug out in the snow. Not that it isn't kinda
>purdy as the clear, high pressure air starts to move in. It's that cool,
>particle-laden breeze that's tough.
>
>On Fri, Feb 8, 2013 at 6:23 PM, The CZ Unit <cz alembic crystel com> 
>wrote:
>
>> The big circuit breaker mounted on the motor. It powers the contactors 
>> and
>> all that good stuff. Check to see if it's open or has been knocked off. 
>> If
>> open and you need the tractor try bypassing it and don't overload the 
>> thing.
>>
>> Note: Blowing 2+ feet of snow uphill and pulling >300a from the pack is
>> not in my mind "overloading" :-)
>>
>> Wish we had 2 feet of snow. Sigh.
>> Chris
>>
>>
>> On 2/8/2013 4:59 PM, Max Hall wrote:
>>
>>> RJ, Larry, Walt, Nick, all,
>>>
>>> THANKS!
>>>
>>> I'm sure it's something stoopid, but I haven't figured it out yet! I 
>>> did
>>> check the keyswitch, brake switch, and seat switch... all are good, all
>>> are making.
>>>
>>> There's only one other suspect in the path to ground. The schematic RJ
>>> sent sure points a finger at "CB-3 in motor"... what the heck? A
>>> low-current circuit breaker "In Motor"? I'll know soon enough... I have
>>> to suit up again to get out there and under the thing to have a look.
>>>
>>> I hope you all are safe and well in snow or not, and thanks again for
>>> your replies,
>>>
>>> LOVE THOSE TRACTORS!
>>>
>>> -Max
>>>
>>> On Fri, Feb 8, 2013 at 2:49 PM, Max Hall <mhall maxmatic com
>>> <mailto:mhall maxmatic com>> wrote:
>>>
>>>     Hi, all,
>>>
>>>     I'm stuck. No forward speeds, no reverse speeds.
>>>
>>>     My ol' manual only has schematics up through AA and BA, and I think
>>>     I'm missing something important!
>>>
>>>     If I use my finger to actuate RTN or RTN-R, the tractor behaves
>>>     perfectly. But neither RTN not RTN-R will pull in by itself!

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