Re: (ET) Tractor repair: motor on deck is overheating.wheel horse C-185

In a message dated 10/1/2010 11:03:36 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, DAC8851 aol com writes:

Thank you Everyone. I did get the adapter off tonight. I did not know that you had to use the bolt to push on. That is why it did not come off because I had the puller on the blade adapter. . The bottom bearing next to the adapter looks like it is pressed on. How do you get it off with out breaking the plate? My split bearing puller does not have the cross bar and threaded rod. I use the puller and grab the sides with a 2 jaw puller. the brushes are wore down.One wore down to the brush holder, I hope this is what is making it get hot. Thank you very much. dave

In a message dated 9/28/2010 7:15:32 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, ctromley gmail com writes:

Anyone who has worked on these before understands, but there is another confusing point for the first-timer. When you look at the clutch hub you see a broad flange and a shaft-size line of separation around the threaded hole. You automatically assume you're looking at the shaft end. You're not. The hub is actually in two pieces: a sleeve that keys to the motor shaft, and a clutch flange which is pressed/staked to the sleeve. The sleeve has a closed end with a clearance hole for the blade screw. The shaft is not visible except where it exits the motor housing.

You must put a screw in the hole and push on the screw. That's the only way to reach the shaft. If you push on what looks like the shaft end, you're actually trying to pull the clutch flange off the sleeve.

Chris

On Tue, Sep 28, 2010 at 12:30 AM, Mike Wallace <metman glasgow-ky com> wrote:

To add a couple points to Jim's reply:

1. The absolute best three jaw puller for blade clutches is a Model 104 Posi
Lock (www.posilock.com). Kinda expensive but far superior to anything from
Harbor Freight or anybody else. And it also works well for pulling
bearings.

2. I replace the standard 5/16-24 x 1 1/2" long hex head blade bolt with a
socket head screw at least 2" long. The hex recess acts to contain the
point on the puller's center bolt.

Mike in KY

-----Original Message-----
From: elec-trak-bounces cosmos phy tufts edu
[mailto:elec-trak-bounces cosmos phy tufts edu] On Behalf Of Jim Coate
Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 7:23 AM
To: elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
Subject: Re: (ET) Tractor repair: motor on deck is overheating.wheel horse
C-185

DAC8851 aol com wrote:
> Hello I have a wheelhorse c-185.The motor on the deck is overheating
> and the thermo switch turns it off. The housing is hotter than the other
> motor. I have 2 motors doing this. It is the 4 1/2 dia motor. I tried
> pulling the blade adapter off the motor shaft but it is stuck. I am
> soaking this with wd 40. I hope this just pulls off. or is there a trick
> getting it off? I was pulling hard with a puller but it would not move.
> I will try again later. I do not have a lot of time to work on this so
> it will be a slow process. When I open the motor up what should I be
> looking for? Will the brushes or bearing cause this? Dave
>

Bearings are the most likely cause, and the easiest fix. But of course
any repair requires getting the blade adapter off. You need to use a
3-jaw puller or a 2-jaw puller with a bearing splitter or a press. It is
imperative to pull on the bottom edge of the adapter (edge nearest the
motor housing) and not on the flange - the flange will just bend and/or
break off. When using a puller, first put the blade screw back in the
threaded hole in the motor shaft. You don't want the forcing screw of
the puller to damage the threads inside the motor shaft.

Ideally just a little pulling will get it done. However... soaking 24
hours ahead with penetrating oil is good. Heating the adapter body with
a small torch may help - the trick is to heat the body quickly so it
expands a little before the motor shaft inside starts to get hot and
also expand. If you have the puller all set up with some pressure
applied then heat, it may 'pop' when it breaks free. Heat cycle(s) may
cook the grease in the lower bearing, but... you need to replace the
bearings anyways.

I'll send you info on replacement bearings & brushes etc off-line.

--
Jim Coate
Waynesboro, VA
www.FreeRangeElectric.com
www.ElectricTractorStore.com

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