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Re: (ET) Leaking E20



   Fascinating. :) All the cast caliper rotors that I have encountered have had the provision for the hub set screw, but the screw has not been present.The way the hole was filled in with crud, the screw had apparently gone AWOL long before I came on the scene. I have had and / or worked on many of the first design cast caliper equipped tractors that have aluminum rotor hub.{You can't make a magnet stick to them.} I have yet to see a steel or other ferrous metal hub.

RJ

Clean Power Supply wrote:
 Actually,the early models with the round pucks in the brakes (which is what I believe Chris has) had provisions in the hub for a set screw to lock it to the shaft. The brake caliper was free to float back and forth. The hub,by the way,is steel not aluminum. The disc is attached to the hub by 3 small bolts.If you take out those bolts you can get on the hub itself with a puller,thereby avoiding the possibility of a bent disc.
 The later brakes with the riveted pads had the free floating disc and the fixed caliper assembly.The disc was a bit smaller and riveted to the (also steel) hub.
 Hope this is beneficial.
 Harold Zimmerman
 Clean Power Supply
 Elec-Trak Parts
 Ephrata PA 
--------------------------------------------------------------
          Yes the caliper and the rotor must slide freely for effective  long lasting brake performance.The rotor hub is aluminum, so alternating  applications of propane torch heat and the penetrant of your choice will  resolve that issue.

          Of course after doing that, another shaft seal will be in  order. :)

Also, note that the trans axle won't leak if there isn't enough oil in  it, just like a Detroit Dieselor a radial aircraft engine. <G>


RJ

Christopher Zach wrote:
  
RJ Kanary wrote:
    
        Probably not. What's done is done. Time to get better 
acquainted with your Fearless Peerless  It's not rocket science, 
but here are several ways to cause yourself pain ,agony and expense 
during tear down.
      
Well, what I'll probably do is get another transmission, mount it, 
then replace this one. In the meantime I loosened then tightened the 
motor, and the belts went from a finger-width of deflection to "not 
    
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