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Re: (ET) Dielectric grease





On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 12:41 PM, RALPH VOGAN <ralphgv talkamerica net> wrote:
I use KOPR-SHIELD CP8-TB Conductive Anti-Corrosive Surface Compound, by Thomas & Betts.  We used it at G.M. on welding bus bars, cables, & fittings.  We run up to 175,000 amps thru these connections and never had a problem with heat or corrosion.  I put some on the end of my wires then crimp on the connector.  It never turns green or gets hot.  Put a coating on the studs and they will not corrode.  DO NOT GET ANY ON THE TOPS OF THE BATTERY'S it will discharge them.  It fills in the scratches & valleys on the surface of the connection greatly improving the conductivity.  It can take heat p to 1800F for a short time without drying out.  I do not work or sell this product, I just like the way it works.  See this web site and check the product details.

http://reznoronline.com/ps/fulltilt/index.cgi?part=20131879

Ralph


On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 11:33 AM, David Roden <etpost drmm net> wrote:
On 12 Oct 2009 at 9:10, Chris Tromley wrote:

> I have no doubt the conductive greases are quality products, I'm just not sure
> they improve conductivity that much.

I remember a discussion of this kind years ago on the EVDL.  Several people
who had different brands of this stuff each took a blob and stuck ohmmeter
probes in it.  IIRC, nobody measured any significant conductivity.  There
might have been one or two brands containing copper that had a little.

A very thin film may have resistance low enough to measure, but the real
utility of Noalox and its ilk is in preventing corrosion between dissimilar
metals (specifically, copper and aluminum).  When you assemble those metals
in a connection (as in using some brands of large lithium cells) this is
important.

With lead I'm not so sure.  I have to admit, though, that I've used vaseline
on battery connections for many years.  It's mostly from habit, I guess. My
father used to install auto batteries that way (and even flashlight cells),
so I've done it that way for most of my life..

It seems to be like that "Arctic Silver" heatsink grease.  Adding silver to
it sounds like somethng that should make it conduct more heat.  But I read a
pretty carefully implemented test of it some years back.  In practical use,
properly (sparingly) applied, good old white silicone heatsink grease works
just about as well, for a lot less money.

If you really want great conductivity and corrosion resistance, use lead or
lead plated battery jumpers and weld / lead-solder them right to the battery
terminals.  I haven't had personal experience with it, but I'm told that
industrial batteries are sometimes done that way.  Probably 20 years ago, an
EV conversion company (Soleq) built their cars that way, too.


David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA

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