Re: (ET) E20 brakes, ug

["RJ Kanary" <rjkanary nauticom net>]

          If the rotor slides as it is supposed to, the wear on the pads 
will be nearly equal. As a matter of fact, the outboard puck will wear at a 
slightly more rapid rate as it starts the apply sequence. The brake that you 
are describing does not sound like the cast caliper that was used on the 
early E-20 tractors. Inner and outer pucks are the same size.Does your 
caliper have a castellated nut  for adjustment on the caliper apply arm ?
           If the later steel caliper is present, a properly working brake 
will wear both inner and outer pads out at the same rate, even though the 
inboard pad is larger.
          BOTH types of brakes MUST have the rotor free to slide.It's not 
optional, it HAS to be that way.The floating steel caliper brake will have 
uneven pad wear if the rotor is seized, just like the cast caliper brake 
will.After you get it squared away, you might be surprised at just how well 
that tractor will haul down. :)


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Christopher Zach" <cz alembic crystel com>
To: "RJ Kanary" <rjkanary nauticom net>
Cc: <elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2007 9:21 PM
Subject: Re: (ET) E20 brakes, ug


> RJ Kanary wrote:
> >            Let's look at the root cause of your brake issue.Don't you 
> > think it's odd that just one pad wears out ? You should. <G> The tractor 
> > is trying to tell you something.A complete brake service is needed. And 
> > you MUST remove the disc in order to do that.So, get your favorite 
> > penetrating oil and propane torch out, and spend some quality time with 
> > your ET.
>
> Not really odd; the pad on the inside of the brake is smaller than the one 
> on the outside. It's fixed to the brake frame, so as both pads wear down 
> it hits the level where it's eclipsed by the brake frame sooner. Then the 
> tractor is stopping on one puck and the Al frame.
>
> >            Lift your ET with an adequate jack.Support your ET with 
> > suitable jackstands.
> >           You will need to at the very least remove the axle tube to 
> > tractor frame bolts on the driver's side to give you enough room to work 
> > effectively.You may also have to LOOSEN the same bolts on the passenger's 
> > side.Remove the caliper from the transaxle.
> >             Clean and inspect it carefully. If the casting is cracked
>
> *nod* Done that, bit of a pain. If one happens to have the tiller bar you 
> have to at least remove the outside stays to get at the bolts.
>
> > around either the apply pin holes or the stud, discard it and obtain a 
> > replacement.
>
> This one was ok actually.
>
> >             The heat and / or penetrating oil will be needed to loosen 
> > and remove the brake rotor that is frozen to the transaxle brake 
> > shaft.Patience and caution are the two operative terms for this 
> > procedure. After removal, clean and lubricate the rotor hub, brake shaft 
> > and woodruff key.Use a water resistant grease of your choosing. I'm 
> > partial to silicone grease used for automotive brake work myself.
>
> That's the question: Is the rotor supposed to float on the axle? The old 
> generation brakes have the brake assembly mounted to the tractor using two 
> floating bushings secured by bolts. Thus when you hit the brakes the 
> caliper moves, not the brake disc. Kind of like how car disc brakes work.
>
> > This should get you started. Any questions ?
>
> How do the second generation brakes work? Does the rotor float, or do the 
> pads?
>
> Chris