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Re: (ET) How NOT to check your batteries...
Yes, I'm still on the list, and still selling controllers.
I suppose I could add some kind of a counter to see if the battery has been
on charge a long time without geting charged, but I sort of think the more
complications I add, the more chance of causing problems. Such as if the
power is off or the mower is not plugged in or the charger capacitor is bad
or the batteries have a bad connection or are old, I would have to make the
controller recognize the problem and report it (buzzer? display?) without
making false alarms. So it would be more expensive and complicated and as
far as I can tell probably not worth it. So I think it is better to rely on
a self propelled auditory visual olfactory multiprocessing controller
(otherwise known as the owner) for such sophisticated problem detection and
analysis.
Harry Landis
From: "Jeremy Gagliardi com" <jeremy gagliardi com>
Reply-To: "Jeremy Gagliardi com" <jeremy gagliardi com>
To: elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
Subject: Re: (ET) How NOT to check your batteries...
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2007 12:12:06 +0000 (UTC)
David Roden wrote:
>I've said it before - Harry Landis's device may have some applications in
>certain circumstances, but it's *not* a charge controller. Its algorithm
is
>intriguing and original, but it doesn't implement the charging
instructions
of
>any battery manufacturer.
>
>It also has fairly minimal "smarts." Most microprocessor based charge
>controllers have safety limits. They can say to themselves, "Uh-oh, I've
been
>charging for 19 hours, and not only is the battery voltage still not up to
where
>it should be, now the voltage is actually *falling*. I guess something's
wrong.
> I'd better stop the charge and turn on my 'fault' light." The Landis
device
has
>no such safeguard.
Harry, are you still on this list? I wonder if you're working on a Mark II
that can handle this situation.
Still, with all due respect, my ability to check the batteries once a month
was clearly at fault. Let's give at least partial credit where it's due.
Also, I wanted to mention that my E20 is in storage through Spring, Summer
&
Fall now. I only use it to plow snow in the winter. My property is so
heavily
landscaped that the big, triple blade mower is too much to maneuver around
everything all day. So, I need a good solution for long term storage.
--
Jeremy Gagliardi
E20
Potomac, Md
>----Original Message----
>From: etpost drmm net
>Date: Aug 6, 2007 13:25
>To: <elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
>Subj: Re: (ET) How NOT to check your batteries...
>
>> with every battery having low water in at least 1 cell, the voltage
>> had severely dropped, and keeping my ET plugged in
>> with the automatic Landis Controller, unsupervised, the charger
>> had been constantly cycling on & off over the course of countless
>> days, boiling away my batteries.
>
>I've said it before - Harry Landis's device may have some applications in
>certain circumstances, but it's *not* a charge controller. Its algorithm
is
>intriguing and original, but it doesn't implement the charging
instructions
of
>any battery manufacturer.
>
>It also has fairly minimal "smarts." Most microprocessor based charge
>controllers have safety limits. They can say to themselves, "Uh-oh, I've
been
>charging for 19 hours, and not only is the battery voltage still not up to
where
>it should be, now the voltage is actually *falling*. I guess something's
wrong.
> I'd better stop the charge and turn on my 'fault' light." The Landis
device
has
>no such safeguard.
>
>Of course, the original GE charger is even dumber. ;-)
>
>> I saw "things" floating in the water. Is that the legendary
>> sulfation I've heard so much about?
>
>Probably not. Shed lead sulfate is relatively heavy and it doesn't float.
It
>sinks to the bottom of the cells. If the battery gets enough vibration,
it
may
>get stirred up, and give the electrolyte a grey color.
>
>I'm not an electrochemist, but I'd guess that your grids corroded from
being
>exposed to air, and you're seeing some of the corrosion flaking off.
>
>> When I bought my batteries, they didn't come with an instruction
>> manual, or even a tip sheet.
>
>You could buy a copy of the Curtis Battery Book One. I think it may be
out
>of print now, but some of the EV parts vendors may still have copies to
offer.
>
>You can also get an excellent introduction to the basics of lead batteries
>from Witte's "The Automobile Storage Battery: Its Care and Repair,"
>published in 1922. It's now in the public domain and you can read the
entire
>text on the web here :
>
>http://www.powerstream.com/1922/battery_1922_WITTE/battery_WITTE.htm
>
>
>
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>
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